Crossover mods and speaker efficiancy?


I was just wondering if anyone can tell me if it makes sense that with complete crossover mods(caps, coils, resistors, and internal cabling)that the speakers would draw more current from my amp? My speakers are Hales T5's with totally upgraded crossovers. I am using Dynamicaps for the tweeter section, Dynamicap,Audiocap and auricaps for the midsection and Solen/Axon for the bass area. My coils were replaced with Solo foill coils(16guage for tweeter, 14 guage for mid and 12 guage for bass). Finally as well the internal cabling was replaced with cardas chasis wire of three guages for the three drivers.
My question is that should these changes make my speakers less efficient or draw more current from my amp. I have a Pass X250 which has a meter on it which indicates how much current is being drawn and when the amp is going out of A mode. When the needle moves at all it's out of A mode and into AB mode. What I have noticed with the crossover mod is that the meter is reading that the speakers are taking very much more current than before the mods. The needle bounces to around the 2 or 3 O'clock point on loud passages where as before the mods the needle rarely passed 12 or 1 O'clock. The sound is way bigger sounding and I suppose the bigger sound is due to the larger current draw but I'm not sure. Would this type of crossover mod make my speakers less efficient in that my amp is obviously working much harder than before but the sound is much bigger than before. Any opinions would be greatly appreciated. I should note that I can listen to louder levels of volume of the music as the sound is clean and doesn't sound "loud" as the speakers now tend to have less distortion and I can play loud without being annoyed. The needle on the X250 meter now tends to bounce around alot where as before it just wiggled.
128x128mitchb
Parts should be as close as possible so that you don't have to use jumper wires between them. You also don't want to keep the factory legs on the caps / resistors real long. That is, point to point from one part to another is ideal, so long as the parts aren't so close as to interfere with each other. Inductors can actually be quite close to each other so long as they don't share common orientations. Sean
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Thanks for the info ..I have my inductors, caps and resistors for each section point to point. The sections themselves are whats separated in each speaker. I have noticed in some speakers the inductors are stacked or fairly close though.
Thanks
What you did works pretty well. This allows one to keep the components for each band-pass in close proximity to each other, keeping the path short, while also reducing crosstalk between band-passes. At the same time, if properly done, one can provide a direct path to the binding posts for each circuit, kind of like a "star circuit" that hovers around one set of connection points. Due to the placement of some binding posts and the size of some crossover networks, direct connection from the parts to the binding posts is not possible, but using an arrangement similar to the one mentioned above with a separate modular board also works quite well. Sean
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