Power supply improvement for CD player

Digital circuits(anywhere in your house) will generally
cause noise(high freq interference) on your AC, so-
isolating them is a good call. Turning anything digital off,
while listening to analog, is also beneficial. The MIT AC1
is an excellent cord. I don't know how resolving the rest of
your system might be, but- if you are able to discern
improvements, related to your other AC tweaks; the fuse(s)
mentioned should make obvious/audible changes. I would
still suggest trying one of the Analysis Plus cords(higher
line than what I suggested earlier/more comparable to the
MIT), just for the sake of comparison. You may find the
presentation more dynamic. Of course; the tweaks are easy
to reverse, should you not appreciate the
differences(unlikely, in the case of the fuse). If you do
try another cord; give it time to settle(or burn-in), before
doing much critical listening. Too bad you're not closer to
Indy. I've always enjoyed teaching others how to do their
own mods. Shipping gear is somewhat risky, with the
gorillas that work for the carriers nowdays. BTW- This is
another cord, that some prefer to the AC1:
(http://www.thecableco.com/Product/Spirit-Mk2-Digital)

Have you ever tried a Power Cord setup as I suggested? At least you don't sell power cords, so you could keep yourself open to that. Dan D'Agostino uses a method I wish I could use, #8(?)gauge twisted copper from the transformer to the breaker box(done by the utility co.). Prohibitively expensive for me. Beyond that, considering the wire quality running from my box (it is not Kimber Kable)to the wall outlet, the relatively short wires that connect the unit to that outlet need only to mach that in-wall wire's (must be copper, no aluminum)transfer capabilities. Twisted strand and conductor(to spin-off magnetic field)copper cable is not expensive. Shorter is better. If there is excess length, braid it as possible for even more magnetic field rejection. Snap-on, or pull-over RF Blockers(of largest diameter you can find)on each end. Aftermarket types, used with typical in-wall wiring, can only mach that at any price(tang quality of the plug and receptacle is an exception). This is my view. I did not belittle your advice or dismiss your methods. I had no aim to be cynical. You(RODMAN99999)had mentioned your "experience" in response to me, first. No "pissing around" here. I respectfully related some of mine.
And no, I haven't listened A/B to modified such as mentioned. I would like to. I am waiting on my new system to become available(Sony TA-A1ES/HAP-Z1ES). I will then take an exhaustive look for ANY possibilities, and I will Post.

Hello Mr C- I only mentioned my experience, directly
related to modding, not overall schooling, etc. You'll
notice that I never put your advice down. I never
personally hardwire PCs, because I like to be able to try
different PCs on my equipment. IECs facilitate that, not to
mention being able to keep a valued cable, if I sell the
gear. Some of the first mods that I ever tried, involved
ferrite beads on every internal wire, as you recommended on
the PC. I further recognize the value and wisdom of
eliminating contact points and isolating power supplies from
adjacent circuits. I'm actually big on removing the power
supply from the chassis altogether, when practical. I do
still(or otherwise) extensively use the shielding I
mentioned in this thread: (http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?htech&1328289757&&&/Shielding-components-from-EMI-RFI-Help-p) (http://www.emsclad.com/examples/emi-rfi-shielding.html)
This stuff would be my choice, in place of your
foil/cardboard idea, though at a much higher price point:
(http://www.tweekgeek.com/stillpoints-ers-rfi-killer/)

Cj. I have found the MIT Oracle AC3, a non-networked pc, to be a "vast" improvement over stock cords. Have you ever tried one?

Rod, any comments on any type of Bybee devices for the power supply?