High Current vs high power

EMB you are a lucky man !!!!

The Rowland 8Ti is a good example of what I was talking about.

Into 4 ohms it is rated 400 watts, but the current figure states(from the website):

50 amps continuous, 100 amps peak

Its pretty obvious this has nothing to do with power! 50 amps continuous into a 1 ohm load would be 2500 watts, yet we can see from the specs that the amp is unable to double power between 8 down to 4 ohms. Even it if could continue to double power to 1 ohm, the output power would "only" be 1600 watts.

What is being stated here would seems to be that the power transformer can provide 50 amps on a continuous basis. I suspect though that if that were to actually happen it would blow its mains fuse in less than a second.

So what we can conclude without speculation or debate is that this 'current' figure is not a real-world spec so much as it is a measure of the capacity of the power supply. I have seen, FWIW, tube amps with this much and more 'current'.

"But here's the dilemma. How often can one fairly audition speakers, amps and other gear given the paucity of high end B&M stores? Forget being able to control all the variables, like using the same model amp when comparing speakers. At least in my neck of the woods, forget taking gear home. Doesn't happen."

I agree that you can't control all of the variables. The good news is you don't always have to. I'll use myself as an example. I'm very picky when it comes to high frequencies. If a system can't get hf's right, I can't listen to it. I don't find it too difficult to judge components in this area under less than ideal circumstances, like a dealer. Given the fact that hf's are very directional, room acoustics don't factor too much into the equation, at least for me. As long as there's nothing in the way between myself and the tweeter, I can usually pick out what I need to.

Now look at another area; Bass. That's much more difficult because the room is so important. That doesn't mean a demo is worthless. Trying a certain amp with a certain pair of speakers can, at least, give you some info, but you are still taking a chance without listening to the system in your room.

So, where I'm going with all this is to say that you shouldn't give up on demoing equipment just because you don't have ideal conditions. Pick the areas of sound quality that are most important to you, and focus on those. Sometimes you have to get creative. Sometimes you have to have to take a road trip. That's just the way it goes. I learned from some very costly experiences, myself. I have no problem at all driving several hundred miles to get to the 1 dealer that will lend me the CD player. And then drive 2 states over because that's where the speakers are. (With the rest of my system in the car, of course). Why? Because its so much easier to spend it, than earn it!

08-26-13: Bifwynne
Al and Ralph, it amazes me how this technical issue just keeps on giving.

LOL! & so true...
but it's good to see that more & more people are beginning to ask this question & are desirous of understanding this electrical interface. This is good! I'm reminded of a clothing company that I * think* is no longer in business - Syms - their slogan was "an educated customer is the best customer". I feel the same for this hobby (obsession?) of audio. The more the users understand, the more the manuf will be vary of try to pull wool over the users' eyes & the more truthful the specs will be.
On the flip side - Look across the pond in the EC countries - hardly anyone over there buys audio equipment based on specs. And, they manuf some really nice sounding gear!
In the USA (& maybe Canada too?) we are obsessed with specs & make that our guiding light in our decisions....

Kelpie, i 2nd Bifynne - read his other threads where several of us have contributed to clearing up the air. It's extensive reading but it will help a lot.

Bombaywalla +1 a thousand times. Over many years I have discovered specs are really useless. Not even a guideline (like I used to think). It's all about total system synergy. Certain components work better with others and will be horrible with others. Best to take advantage of in home demos. Second would to audition at a friends or dealers with as much of what you own and want to keep (evens if it means bringing some of your own equipment - I've done it). I understand that isn't always possible so if you post a thread best to include Equipment - Room Size - type of music and what sound you look to change. Very important also what you like and don't like.

Ok that being said I didn't answer you question but here is an experience I had. Had a Bryston B100sst driving Dynaudio C1's which is rated at 85db The Bryston B100 was rated @ 180W at 4ohms. I thought more power would make the Dyn C1's sound better. I found 2 integrateds that sounded much more powerful especially in controlling the sound. Naim Supernait and Octave V70se (both rated at 70W). I bought the Octave and have since upgraded to the V110 (again a little more control).

Most important this is what I experienced. Short story - forget specs and just listen.