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Why are they doing this?

Kinda vague, huh? I'll elaborate. I have Emotiva XPA-1 monoblocks driving Magnapan 20.7's. Before that they were powering Mag 3.7's. They are 1000 watts into 4ohms. They never clipped. I did play them loud but not ridiculously loud. These amps have blue led meter lights that move in sync with the amp output and they would peak a little passed halfway. Occasionally a bit higher. Recently I added a pair of REL G2 subwoofers. They are connected one left and one right as per the manual. That would be to the speaker posts on the amps with the supplied neutrik cable. Upon connecting the subs, the blue led's no longer move. (Yes, I've checked the switch that turns these on and off) Also, three times now, the amps have clipped, once left channel and twice right channel. It was at a pretty good volume but not where it was outrageous. I talked to a tech at Emotiva and first off, he had no knowledge of REL subs and how they are connected. After I explained it he was kinda at a loss for words having obviously never heard of connecting subs to the speaker posts on the amps. His explanation for what was happening was that the subs are 4ohm and the 20.7's are 4ohm so that's driving the load down to 2ohms and that's causing the clipping and the amps cannot detect 2ohms so that's why the led's are not functioning. If this is true then Rel subs cannot be used with any 4ohm speaker or the same problem will occur. I'll be honest, when you start talking ohms splitting and other electronic stuff I tend to get lost. Anybody care to take a stab at this?

mrschret
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almarg
9,670 posts
 
Thanks, Elizabeth. As I indicated I always have great respect for your knowledgeable inputs. I've learned from them over the years as well.

Albert, thanks also. I realize that. In this case, however, the tradeoff appears to be between (a)connecting at speaker level, which would require soldering a wire onto an RCA plug, for each channel, and (b)connecting at line-level, which would require purchasing additional interconnect cables, possibly purchasing splitters and introducing them into the signal path, and possibly spending several hundred dollars or more on a buffer, while losing the possible sonic benefit of providing the same signal to both the subs and the main speakers, and introducing the possible sonic effects of the splitters or buffer, if needed, and of the additional interconnect cables (which for several reasons I would expect to be more significant than the effects of the Neutrik cable).

The answer to Bruce's question "why mess with the amps" seems clear in this case. Why mess with the alternative?

Best regards,
-- Al
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albertporter
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Albert, thanks also. I realize that. In this case, however, the tradeoff appears to be between (a)connecting at speaker level, which would require soldering a wire onto an RCA plug, for each channel, and (b)connecting at line-level, which would require purchasing additional interconnect cables, possibly purchasing splitters and introducing them into the signal path, and possibly spending several hundred dollars or more on a buffer, while losing the possible sonic benefit of providing the same signal to both the subs and the main speakers, and introducing the possible sonic effects of the splitters or buffer, if needed, and of the additional interconnect cables (which for several reasons I would expect to be more significant than the effects of the Neutrik cable).

Understood, my point was operation with a buffer (Bruce obviously already owned) helped resolve an issue.

Such as In my case, where the JL Audio subs required interconnect cables, unlike the REL which probably works better as designed from speaker terminals.

In my case the subwoofer dragged down the bandwidth of the main system when both sets of interconnect were used.

In cases like this, the buffer saves the day. Literally, only other options are to sell the sub or suffer serious loss of bandwidth.

I don't question the wire suggestion you made for the REL.
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almarg
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Thanks, Albert. Agreed.

To the OP, although I don't particularly recommend it, I'll mention another means of grounding the black wire, that MIGHT work acceptably, depending on the internal grounding configurations of the amp and the sub. That would be to connect the black wire to a chassis screw on the amp. I suppose there would be no harm in trying that, although the result might be a very loud hum. The RCA plug approach I suggested, though, is more technically correct and much less likely to have problems.

Regards,
-- Al
mrschret OP
52 posts
 
Very much appreciate the feedback here. To bring things up to date, I contacted REL and their answer was exactly what Al says here in the last post. Take the red and yellow wires, twist them together and attach to the positive post on each amp. Take the black wire and attach to a chassis screw for grounding. Ok, so that I don't seem like a complete idiot, the REL manual does show this connection for fully balanced amps and I DID look at it. My problem was that it shows only for a single sub and not monoblock amps. I didn't want to take a chance and connect them this way unless I was completely sure it was safe. So, that's the way their connected now and everything works fine. The led's are even metering again.
As for the suggestion to connect the RCA plug, maybe that would be a good way but I really don't think the folks at REL intended for anyone that bought their subs to have to go through those extra steps. I did learn soething here though and I thank you for that.
coxhaus
231 posts
 

Just to let you know about REL subs as I have a pair of Stentors III connected to monoblocks. I use the red and yellow together for each sub on the + terminal of both right and left monoblocks so each Stentor is connected to one monoblock each. I do not connect the black wires. You only need to connect the black to ground if you have a hum.
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