My new dedicated room sound like crap,please help.

I second Duke's suggestions. I would also add that you are going to run into some BIG "peaks and valleys" since you have two room measurements that are the same size ( 11 x 9 x 9 ). These will tend to heavily reinforce each other and may be tough to deal with.

If you've got more time than money, i would try building and running two of Jon Risch's absorption panels. These should be located along the side walls at the point of first reflection. You can build them to suit the amount of space that you are willing to sacrifice.

I would then try constructing some type of diffusor type panels and mount them directly behind your seated listening position.

Next up would be bass traps to go into the corners.

Obviously, speaker placement will be quite critical. Take your time and i would suggest starting some type of logbook. Make your notes as detailed as possible. Don't take for granted that you'll remember specifics, as the more trial and error that you do, the more the specifics will run together. Having detailed notes can save you from doing the same things over and over again.

If you're handy, have some basic tools, can follow directions and don't mind getting your hands dirty, this should set you back way under $200 total and bring you much closer to what you are looking for. You can obviously continue on a lot further than this, but this should give you at least a very noticeable improvement for very little monetary investment. Sean
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I agree with Nrchy's comments, this one might be baffling (oops!- bad pun!). Not only do room acoustics come into play, but the resonant frequencies of the materials the components are sitting on will affect performance.

Sometimes with a smaller room the speakers will actually sound better not along one wall, but rather facing diagonally with a corner as a midpoint (picture an imaginary line from the midpoint of one wall to the midpoint of an adjacent wall and place the speakers along that line). This sometimes results in a "warmer" sound.

With a wood floor the spikes of speaker stands like to be pressed firmly into the wood. Any wobble can degrade performance. You probably know this already....

Last comment I have that may or may not help is to try placing your components on different isolation platforms or simply swithing their positions. Each room and every wall/floor has different resonance charateristics, and every component has its own needs in terms of isolation.
The shelf/stand that worked for your amp in the last room may not work in the new room for example. Things can suddenly sound bright and harsh. If you haven't been using isolation at all except for your speakers, the system will sound COMPLETELY different in a new room (not taken from a book- just direct observation). Steel amp stands with spikes on the bottom work very well with wooden floors, not just w/amps but sometimes cd as well. Try getting one for each component and see what happens.

Treating the room acoustics is basically trial and error, and as the above contributors have pointed out, a long process usually. The small area of wall behind/between the speakers as well as the region of wall behind the listener's head I like to leave blank & dry. When I've tried to diffuse these regions the result was often HF timing errors, percieved as brightness & fatiguing sound. One exception was a home studio a friend of mine had. He bought an expensive specialty diffuser designed to go behind the listener's head and it was great. Don't remember the name of it though. hanging plants in the corners is an easy & safe way to start experimenting.

Best of Luck!

For a (good) start, buy F. Alton Everest's "Sound Studio Construction on a Budget" (covers all kinds of listening rooms) or his 4th edition of "The Master Handbook of Acoustics". You'll learn how to anyalyze your room's resonant modes and what to do about them, and also about absorption and diffusion. There are a lot of DIY options covered, if you have any workshop capability. Good luck!

I would try Room Lenses. They are an awesome product, they look nice, and solve many of the problems outlined above. They are a little pricey, but well worth the money. Check out Audio Asylum for directions on contructing your own.

As Sean indicated your room is dangerously close to square. I would start with corner bass traps to get control of the peaks and valleys in the bass waves and because all sound waves tend to pile up in the corners. with the smaller room your first reflections will hit your ears sooner and appear to be an integral part of the signal (after a certain time period your ears recognize reflections as such and don't integrate them into the signal) and creates smearing. Room lenses may also work here but i'd build them ala john risch designs since their diffussion capabilities are much more important than the action of the helmholtz resonator properties of the stuffed tubes.