What headphone amp to buy-Sennheiser HD 600?


Well, thanks to the kindness and patience of my fellow A'gon-izers, the hook-up "problem" for the headphone amp I have is solved. The amp is a Ramsey SHA 1. The phones are Sennheiser HD 600. I had remembered that amp sounding great. Now I'm spoiled by the new speakers I have, and even though the signal path to the amp is thru the Dodson DAC, I still think it sounds........not so great. Decent I suppose, but harsh on the upper end, yet without the mitigating detail, and you know, just.....unsatisfactory.

OK, OK, so here's the question(s): What's a great, fairly cheap (like, at LEAST less than a grand) headphone amp? Sonically, I want EVERYTHING!!!! (Except soundstage, that has never happened for me with any headphones, ever, I'm pretty sure not even with the expensive Stax I heard a few years ago).
It MUST have: Tight, deep, fast, smooth, tonally correct, musical bass, shimmering, non-fatiguing, emminently smooth yet ultra detailed highs, great midbass punch with no boom or softness whatsoever, midrange that is totally natural, smooth, detailed, and lacking any hint whatsoever of grain or electronic amplification artifact in the upper registers. It should sound great on ALL program material, from classical to rock to bluegrass to new age to jazz, anything and everything.

Other than those relatively modest criteria, there are no other performance demands. :)))

So, fire away!
mdhoover
Audioari1:
Thanks for the tip. Those seem to be priced reasonably, too. Now that I have the Stax setup, I'm uncertain about whether to keep or sell the HD600's, but if I do keep the Sennheisers, then there will be a lot of potential amps to consider.

Thanks again, to you and all of the other members who have contributed their insights and shared their experiences on this thread.
-Bill
Bill- If you roll tubes you will probably need to re-bias teh amp. It involves using a multimeter and adjusting a pair of pots inside the amp (if its the same as my 006t). The procedure was somewhat complicated and iterative (had to go back and forth, IIRC). If its not in the manual (ifyou got one) try contacting STax or post on head-fi.org and you will probably get someone there to give you the procedure.
Swampwalker,
Thanks for the information. Tube biasing sounds very difficult and time-consuming. I do have the Stax manual, though. I'll give it a shot after the tubes arrive and the headset returns from being repaired.
-Bill
Bill - Though it may sound complicated, it really is very simple. Once you've done it once or twice it'll be a snap. I don't know the Stax procedure either, but most manufactures give you easy access to the points you'll need to read and change the bias. BTW, many modern tube amps now use some kind of auto-biasing circuit eliminating the need to bias. Here's the basic procedure (trying to simplify for newbee, though it really is pretty simple): Get yourself an inexpensive digital multimeter from Radio Shack that reads in milivolts. Turn the amp on with the headphones (speakers in the case of a regular amp) connected, the volume turned all the way down, and no source connected to the amp. Let the amp warm up for 3 minutes or so. Each tube will have two contact points to take a reading. Set the multimeter to read mV and use the +/- probes to contact the two points for a single tube. This will give you a reading on the multimeter which may or may not be close to what you are aiming for. You will need to know exactly what the manufacturer reccomends for that amp for optimum performance (as Swampwalker said, a manual will be very helpful through all of this). Let's say it is .37 and your meter reads .49 - this would mean your bias for that tube is too hot and you need to lower it. To change the bias of the tube there should be either a knob, or more likely a screwdriver slot, in which case you'll need a small screwdriver. The knob/slot is connected to the pot(entiometer) Swampwalker was talking about and is there to adjust the bias. With the meter still touching the two points readin the bias of the tube, turn the screw quite gradually counterclockwise to lower the current (bias). You will see the numbers go down. Get the number to come as close as you can to .37 (or whatever number the manufacturer recommends as the bias point). Usually there is a tolerance of a few milivolts, and it will fluctuate/drift a bit, so just come as close as you can and don't worry about it. Go to the other tube (you only have two) and repeat the procedure with the proprietary pot and reading points for that tube. Once you've done the second, you may want to go back and check the first and re-adjust, and do the second once more too. After that, you're done. You should probably check/adjust the bias once a month or so. Again, once you've done the procedure once or twice it's a snap. It definitely is not time consuming for two tubes. First time will likely take all of twenty minutes perhaps since you'll be learning by doing. After you get it down you'll be able to do it in five minutes.

Marco
Marco is correct as to the procedure, however, on my 006t, I think you had to do it with the cover off and it was a bit more of a hassle than on most amps. Not difficult, just a little tedious and of course, be careful with the multi-meter leads. On my Cary, there is just a phone jack that you plug your meter into, a single pot, and an open chassis, so its a bit easier. The first time, I would do it after 3-4 min go by, and then again in about 1/2 hr. then you should be good, unless you roll the tubes, then you will need to do it for each set.