Time To Replace Tubes?


I was wondering when do you guys decide to change your tubes?Are there any indications to listen for to know that you are at the end of your time with a set of tubes short of them blowing up on you?
I have a Wright 3.5 that has the 2a3,6sn7 and 5y3 rectifier tube in it.I was using a set of NOS Brimar's in the 6sn7 position.Recently i started thinking my mids were not there in my system and thought that my newly acquired modwright Sony 999ES may have been part of the problem.Well on a whim i swapped back in the stock EH6sn7's that came with the amp.I have very low hours on those tubes as i put the Brimars in not long after getting the Wright's.WEll my lordy the soundstage became huge and warm and just awesome just with swapping back in those EH's.
Maybe they just work better synergistically with the Modwright player i don't know.Maybe the Brimars are still fine but sounded lean with this player?
But back to my original thought on this is there something you can audibly listen for when you know your tubes are going?
Now i wonder if replacing the 2a3 or the 5y3 will bring even more sonic gains?It sounds incredibly better now just with that 6sn7 swap.I was looking into new speaker wire and possibly a tube preamp and here all i really needed to get those mid guts were to put back in those EH's.I'm loving that too cause they are a heck of alot cheaper then the NOS route.
What a pleasant surprise!! : )
seekburk
Yes, there are gold EH6sn7s. I have one. I bought 4 EH6sn7s at CES. They didn't have enough of the regular ones, so I bought one gold one. The gold referes to the pins being gold plated. The EH rep assured me that there were no internal differneces betwen the gold and regular 6SN7s, just the presence of gold plating on the pins. I don't know if the gold makes any differnece in sound. I think the only reason for the gold is for corrosion prevention, as the tin plating (I'm guessing that's the standard finish on non-gold pins) may oxidize over time, and reduce contact conductivity. Gold, on the other hand, doesn't corrode, as evidenced by gold items that are recovered from ancient shipwrecks that are just as shiny as the day they wer made, and the ability to find golod nuggets in nature, whereas other metals must be refined from ore.

In any event, I'm not convinced gold is the way to go, unless you also have gold plated tube sockets (Do these exist? I don't know). The reason being that when dissimialr metals are placed in close contact to each other, the one less prone to corrosion will cause the other metal to corrode faster than it would on its own. Since gold is the least likely of al lmetals to corrode, it can cause other metals to corrode more rapidly. This effect is much more important when the metals are in contact with water, but it can't help. I think I'm better off using tin pins in tin sockets. Where the pins aer actually in the closest contact will probably not corrode, since there is no air for oxygen to get in. Everywhere else on the pin will oxidize a bit, but these araeas are not conducting anyway. When you remove and reinstall the tube (for whatever reason), the scraping of the pin in socket should clean the oxide layer off.
I'm using these tubes in a pair of Atma-Sphere MA1s. They replace the stock Chinese tubes. Although I don't have enough tubes to retube both amps, comparing one amp w/all Chinese tubes to one w/ 4 EH tubes, the EH one sounds a bit more resolving of detail, and has tighter bass. The difference was not huge, but noticeable.
I guess your original question is still unanswered - does the EH sound better than the NOS because the NOS is worn out or because a good EH sounds better (in this situation) than the perfectly good NOS. Good question. Sounds like you need a tube tester.
Thanks folks for your help and information first of all!! : ) VERY HELPFULL and i appreciate it.
Larry510 i am curious as to what speakers you are using?i have very efficient horn speakers(103db) and seem to get enough power with the 2a3 tube and was wondering what sonic changes occurred for the better for you by using that 300B?
I currently am running the stock Sovtek 2a3 which alot of people seem to think is a decent tube and it does sound good in my system.
The Wright amps i am using are self biasing so i don't have to worry about that which has been a nice feature since coming from PP amps that i had to bias which i found myself always being concerned about.So it does sound like a tube tester may be what i need.I am totally ignorant of them and their use so is there any recommendation for an inexpensive one made for knucklehead simplicity?
Larryken have you found the 2a3's you mention including the EHgold 2a3 to sound better then the Sovtek 2a3's?I have heard alot of good things about the Sovtek so haven't bothered swapping and George Wright sends them out stock as he did the EH6sn7.I am back to the EH 6sn7 and loving it so figured he selected those tubes to use for his design.I am sure that finding just the right NOS tubes would be a positive step but the price of the new production tubes makes me not want to go that route if i don't have to and these EH6sn7's are doing it for me right now for sure.I don't think i gave them enough time for them to break in before yanking them.I was just on another thread where some SET owners were talking about them and saying they were comparing them to some NOS mullard and they were shocked at how close they were in sound?So i am not crazy....well maybe ; )
Seeburk - I'm not sure if there's a TubeTesterForDummies, rand most that I know of are quite old. I use a BK707 and, though it does take some getting used to, it can be very versatile. Unfortunately it will not test the larger 2A3 and 300B tubes. On the other hand the price of a good tester spans a large range depending on where you happen to find it. You can find one at a garage sale or auction for $50, or one here on A'gon for $500. Supply and demand. Be aware that some tube testers actually utilize a tube in their circuit. Also it would be good to find one that has been somehow confirmed accurate or recently calibrated/adjusted.

George certainly knows his tubes. You should see his NOS stockpile. I don't think that means that he necessarily provides the very best tube for the purpose with his amps, nor does any manufacturer that I know of. That would be a very expensive proposition in most cases, although it would seem to make sense given it would make their product sound better. I think to stay $ competitive, no one does it. Probably the Sovtek and EH that he does provide are damn good bang for the buck. I think the Sovtek 2A3 is one of the few tubes that company does very well. I think I settled on some JAN 6SN7's in mine, but I don't recall what else I rolled with them.

Marco
I recently acquired the Wright Mono 10 amps, and I've tried three sets of tubes so far: Sovtek 2A3, EH 2A3 Gold, and now the Sophia 300B 2.5v Princess. Personally, I like the EH tubes a lot more than the Sovteks. I find the EH tubes more detailed and a deeper soundstage than the Sovteks. I'm not all that crazy yet about the Sophia's, but I've only run them a few hours so far. I've been told that these tubes take quite a while to break in.
Hey Stew - How do you like the Mono 10's you got? Are they working out for you in your system?

Marco