Preamp Caps?Auricap,Mundorf, Hovland, jensen,solen


Hello,
I have a preamp with only 2 Signal caps directly in front of two tubes shot right out to the amps, extreme simplicity and excellent sound. This is the first preamp that came stock with Auricap's I have owned or heard, most in the past have always had Multicaps, Kimber caps in my previous pre's. I can say I think the Auricaps are quite a bit better but not that expensive or the end all-be all that I understand. Now I have had some crossovers and a Preamp with Solen fastcaps in it, and they are the best in Bass I have heard out of all of them, not that it makes them superior just an observation. I have also purchased Jensens oil and put them in Tube equipment in the past, not bad but did not blow my doors off.. And Finally Hovlands, not my Cup if you know what I mean, I found them the most expensive and the least impressive, could be the mix of component used in, but whatever too dry for me. Mundorf is a little newer on the scene to me and I thought the Hovlands were pretty obscene in cost, however these are the new Cost and hype leaders from what I can tell today. I am considering trying the Mundorf Silver in oil supreme caps at no small cost to see if they are gonna create more magic than the Auricaps. . What is the character of this cap? I want very 3d and open yet still have some intimate warmth and very powerful bass. Is this a cap worth venturing over all the other explanations I left here? Needs a liquid sound, and get that fairly deep bass solen seems to be capable of for only a couple dollars a cap, cause I do not want to soften the already slightly soft Tube bass. Thanks to all that know about this tweaking and expereance with these caps . . Again its only 2 Caps, very easy to install so its hard to keep my hands off, but do not want to go backwards or waste the cause if its not gonna be very significant in this specific application, Anybody know of any good tube equipment or preamps using these mundorf super caps? By the way my tubes are Mullards NOS. Preamp manufacture would seem to be irrelevant here and yes I am pretty dang happy with the sound for the money already, but there is always more right 
undertow
V-Caps are actually smaller than the equivalent values in polystyrene. You might check the dimensions.

If you can't afford the V-Caps, consider the Rel-Cap Teflons.
Are the cardas not teflon? Well for affording them I don't have that issue as much as diminishing returns at some point, I have a fishey feeling they would not be double the performance of some of these caps costing half the price already at 100 bucks a pop . . But again I could see benefits, but honestly for that cost in a Capacitor I would absolutly have to hear an A-B test with identicle equipment head to head with another good Cap to consider blowing that kinda money on a fairly basic and not super criticle but important upgrade move. And I know I won't get that A-B and never may know, but yeah that is very pricey for the risk I am willing to experement with here.
How about these? PPT Theta AudioCap, look pretty good too.

Most of these types only come in 2.0 uF so would I need to buy 2 of these and then use a .22 uF in parallel?

What is the best way to attach the cap to the board physically, Silicon, Double sided tape, Blue tac, or one sided weather stripping to just set the cap on to reduce vibration?

Right now the caps in the unit do not have anything under them, not sure if I should correct this or not when going in there to do this.
1. The preamp's output impedance is determined by the nature of the circuitry.
2. V-Cap TFTFs (teflon-film, tin foil) are fine-sounding caps and arguably as good-sounding as money can buy, and so are SoniCap Platinums (which also are made with teflon film, in this case a proprietary teflon-alloy) and which also are arguably as good-sounding as money can buy. SCPs are significantly less expensive.
3. I understand the CardasGR uses 'propylene and teflon film.
4. The high-pass filter established by your output couplers and amp input impedance is about 7 Hertz, rather high WITHOUT an output-load resistor in the preamp, and I'd be very suprised if there isn't one. (If there is one, the filter point goes UP.) If you intend to keep this amp and if you'd like to have more-solid-sounding bass, I'd move that filter down at least an octave by about-doubling the value of the caps. I believe I'd build a composite cap and start with a MultiCap RTX ('styrene) of 3/200 ($42), a 1/600 Cardas GR, and then a 0.1/600 SoniCap Platinum ($29). Another combination that has potential and is less expensive would be a large SoniCap-1, say a 6.8/200 for $14, with as large a Cargas GR as you choose to afford, say a 0.47 for $30, in parallel. This gains even higher-quality bass via a lower filter point--in this case just over 2Hz ignoring the preamp's output-gounding resistor.
5. I mount caps with 3M double-sided plasic-foam tape. Here's a pic...

...of the couplers in my ASL 'Canes, showing a pair of CGRs 'taped' together and also to the ceiling of the amp.
6. Caps break-in just as about-all other 'passive' devices; I recommend AT LEAST 50 hours of high-level music for the 'propylenes, 100 hours for 'styrenes, and 500 hours for teflon caps, before you listen critically.

BTW I do put my money where my mouth is; I used SoniCap Platinums in the 1st coupling position and Cardas GRs in the 2nd in these Hurricanes, in spite of having to buy 4 SCPs and 16 CGRs!
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