Getting in a little late on this one, and, I have not read every thread in response so apologies in advance for any redundancy.
I am a big believer in byamping, have been for quite some time, in my opinion, it must be done using an active crossover. I have tried using a passive crossover and I think the gains are not worth the expense. It is quite a bit more expensive going with an active crossover over a passive crossover. You will need two amps, two sets of interconnect, three power cords (one for the mid/base amp, one for the tweeter amp and one for the crossover), an active crossover (all active crossovers have gain controls for the top and bottom, at least I have not seen one without) and two sets of speaker cable. The results are quite impressive. Going in this direction one can than pick amps that suit his/her taste. SET on the top for the sweetness of a SET, SS on the bottom for the dynamics, weight and overall slam, or SET on the top and SET on the bottom, etc, etc.
When using an active crossover you will have to run your speaker cable from your outboard crossover directly to the individual drivers of the speaker. You will be bypassing the internal crossover within the speaker. You can't just hook up to the binding posts on the back of your speakers because you would not be bypassing the internal crossover.
I have found, as so many have referred to the blacks, the blacks are blacker, and the noise floor is lowered beyond belief. Each artist is positioned and stands alone without competition from others or movement. Each artist has his/her space; even on coral pieces there is depth and width without haze. The highs are so clear, a brush on a snare, one can count the number of bristles, obviously an exaggeration but I can hear various bristles making contact, shocking.
I am sure that there are many who will say the expense is not worth the return and to many that is true. For me, I will not be going back to a single amp to reproduce the whole frequency range running through a passive internal crossover anytime soon. Good luck with whatever you decide to do Bob
I am a big believer in byamping, have been for quite some time, in my opinion, it must be done using an active crossover. I have tried using a passive crossover and I think the gains are not worth the expense. It is quite a bit more expensive going with an active crossover over a passive crossover. You will need two amps, two sets of interconnect, three power cords (one for the mid/base amp, one for the tweeter amp and one for the crossover), an active crossover (all active crossovers have gain controls for the top and bottom, at least I have not seen one without) and two sets of speaker cable. The results are quite impressive. Going in this direction one can than pick amps that suit his/her taste. SET on the top for the sweetness of a SET, SS on the bottom for the dynamics, weight and overall slam, or SET on the top and SET on the bottom, etc, etc.
When using an active crossover you will have to run your speaker cable from your outboard crossover directly to the individual drivers of the speaker. You will be bypassing the internal crossover within the speaker. You can't just hook up to the binding posts on the back of your speakers because you would not be bypassing the internal crossover.
I have found, as so many have referred to the blacks, the blacks are blacker, and the noise floor is lowered beyond belief. Each artist is positioned and stands alone without competition from others or movement. Each artist has his/her space; even on coral pieces there is depth and width without haze. The highs are so clear, a brush on a snare, one can count the number of bristles, obviously an exaggeration but I can hear various bristles making contact, shocking.
I am sure that there are many who will say the expense is not worth the return and to many that is true. For me, I will not be going back to a single amp to reproduce the whole frequency range running through a passive internal crossover anytime soon. Good luck with whatever you decide to do Bob