Capacitors for BAT VK-60


I'm planning to change the Jensen caps.
I don't really like how they(Jensens) sound so I've been thinking about Multicaps, Auricaps or the red Dynamicaps.
Any suggestion?
Has anyone did a change like this and how was the sound after that?
Thanks
damaradona
Damarado, I just saw a post where you mention you want to use a Dynamicaps and bypass it with another. My experience is that Dynamicaps sound best on their own, not bypassed. You could try bypassing a big(ish) Dynamicap, lets say 2uF with another Dynamicap of 0.01uF. I wouldn’t mix caps when using dynamicaps.

Also, if you want a slightly warmer sound with loads of detail, consider replacing your signal path resister with AN tantalums. I found that dynamcaps + tantalums gave a very detailed sound with a hint of warmth. A match made in heaven?

Use higher wattage than is required i.e. substitute a 2-watt Tant for a 1-watt resistor, and do a stereo pair at a time. You can warm up your sound incrementally till you hit the spot.

Lastly, I would hold of on tube rolling till you do the caps. You may find the exotic > $180 6sn7s are really not needed after you ‘rolled’ some caps.

Regards
Paul
Paul, yes I did.About bypassing.
Many “upgrade” guys are using Polypro or Metallised Polypro caps and bypassing them with TFT or Polysterine caps, that’s why I mentioned that.
But I think I can try to bypass a Dynamic with another Dynamic, it’s easy.

About Tants, I’m not really sure…
I got a few of them but I believe Kiwame are smoother and warmer than Tants. With wider soundstage too.
Anyway, I got them both so I can compare them once again.
I hope it’s worth it…
I installed the V-caps in my VK-75 on Monday.

After everything runs for a few days,I'll report back.

Tim
Sherod,
Going on what Dgarretson advised.

Viewed through the side or bottom cover, you’ll see four 2”L x 3/4”W yellow/green caps across the PCB beneath the 6C33C tubes. The caps are marked Balance Audio Technology ..22uf/630V. They can be desoldered without removing the main PCB, and replaced with four V-Cap TFTF .22uf/600V. When installing the V-Caps, face the red lead to the rear of the chassis and the green lead to the front. Put a piece of Radio Shack double-sided cushioning tape between each cap & the PB.



Allow at least 100 hours before critical judgment and 400 hrs for full break-in. But I think even cold out of the box these teflon caps surpass the stock paper-in-oil BAT/Jensen caps. This upgrade simply transforms the amp, particularly in terms of improved bass control & dynamics & elimination of sluggishness. The caps sound continuous, detailed, airy, very real & very musical. No down-side whatsoever once they’re broken in.