audiphile power cords


Do upgraded power cords really make a significant difference in sound quality? I have a Jolida 502p that I think sounds pretty good. What do you recommend for a power cord that would make a significant improvement?
al2214
Bojack, THE 60s??!! Really!! So nothing has changed in 50 years.

While I agree that most make no, very little difference or make things worse there ARE a few that make a positive difference. But like all things audio you do need to pay for the improvement. But there are some that are in a reasonable price range for audiophiles.

If your system is not dark/warm but is neutral to bright I would recommend the new entry level cable, HE MKIII, from Waveform Cable formally Kaplan Cable. It lists for $529 and is an overachiever. It is one of the few power cables that lets the instruments natural tone come through. This is in more then one system.

One caveat. I have only tried it on amps.
Since there is no way to A/B different cords simultaneously, it is hard to tell if there is a big difference between them. Some people claim to be able to hear differences in listening tests that span a time (30 seconds, a minute?) between hearing the same music in the same system (and if you power your system down for a minute or more, you must assume that powering it down makes no change to the sound. But then, many claim you should leave your gear on, especially amplifiers for 30 minutes or more for best results). I'm not sure that I can hear a difference after a minute or more of powering down my system, and trying to remember exactly what I heard before. I think most people who say power cords make a difference would also say the difference is subtle - not huge. The more subtle the difference, the more exact your memory must be to hear that 2%. So I take it all for a grain of salt. That said, I have drank the cool aid and bought various models over the years, never more than $500 for one. The only ones I have seen that have provided -some- measure of science behind why their products should sound better are Shunyata. I had them with a Hydra at one point. I was never able to do a valid A/B listening test that could demonstrate to me, in my system, with my ears, that it was better. And for all the others, perhaps 5 or more, I have never been able to tell a whole lot of difference. My philosophy is to buy something that is well made that will serve your system for a long time. A stock cord might fit that bill.
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I've paid $10k for a tube preamp. I still can't believe I could spend that kind of money on a piece of audio equipment. In the years that I've owned that preamp, I believe that it has been worth every penny. $10k is still a lot of money, no matter how good the preamp sounds.

I said all of the above to get someone to explain to me a $10k power cord. I mean if you have a $10k power cord, you'd need at least a $40k preamp to hook it up to. I mean, do you buy a $10k power cord for a $10k preamp? Is there some sort of mathematical formula/ratio/percentage for the price of the cord vs the price of the component you are powering? 5,10,20,30 percent?

Has any component manufacturer ever gotten on board with recommending any aftermarket power cords for their equipment?
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They do make a difference - or at least they can - but, only sometimes or not. But, as near as I understand it, one of the biggest stumbling blocks for PC designers is proper geometry vs gauge vs length. The big goal being to lower impedance. Noise pickup, or cancellation (or even passive reduction), is another factor. One problem with it all is that this balance of those 3 factors is pretty much dependent upon the given application: whether you intend to use the PC to supply a source (and whether that is digital or analog), or a pre or an amp (even tube or SS??), and so on. But, even with different cords for different apps, there is still another problem: the in-wall wiring in your home. Not only the wiring itself, but what kind of load is being applied through it to each circuit branch in your breaker box. To keep voltages stable over time (theoretically speaking anyway) your home circuit branches from the box should each be given a fairly steady load, or draw, that is only somewhat below the rating on each breaker (safely close to maximum). So, if you have, say, a 15-amp circuit, with a good, relatively stable draw of around, say, 10 or 12 amps most of the time, then this results in voltage stability for that circuit. But, OTOH, if you have, say, a 30-amp circuit that nothing is ever plugged into, then this can contribute to voltage instability in the rest of your house. To us audiophiles, that translates into those day-to-day, time-of-day changes in sound that can plague our systems, sometimes somewhat predictably, although sometimes not. It is often assumed that these voltage swings are always coming from the power outside the home (which can happen), but in actuality it may more often originate from inside the home. Voltage regulators would appear to be a solution, but, ironically, they are usually just as susceptible to these fluctuations as our systems are(!). But, into this unpredictable environment the PC designer must go, but the question is how. I know all the complexities are rather hard to fathom, but that's really my point. Even for the PC designer, there is no way to arrive at any perfect solution under all circumstances. Not only is every system different, but every home's electrical system is different as well. No PC will independently solve an in-home voltage instability (just good old properly designed and utilized circuits can account for a lot of that). But, at least one thing to take away here is that there can be at least some PC solutions that are perhaps very good, or even excellent, in many, or even most, situations much of the time. However, in this context, that means that those PC's are likely not first 'dreamed up' on paper by the engineer, but instead arrived at by trial and error and are necessarily 'developed' over an extended period of time...and only, it would seem, by repeatedly testing under real-world conditions - not in a lab. Which makers will be doing just that and whether or not the cords would make the kinds of changes we may be hoping for in our systems and in our own homes is still the (you-fill-in-the-amount)-dollar question. For my own money, Alan Maher Designs has been doing this for a few years now and is a company I've had excellent results with, but their PC's also utilize passive noise reduction, which, although a 'whole 'nuther thing' in itself if you will, it has worked out to be a big advantage over other makers, for me. Hope all this helps.
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