First Tube Amp: Advice? Keep spare tubes on hand?


I'll be receiving my first tube amp in a few days.
Please let me know the basics I NEED to know. I really want to know if I should keep a spare set of tubes on hand.
I have read the primers I could find on line.
I thank all of you excellent Audiogon'r's for your excellent advice and information in advance.

Richard
rhanechak
Again, thank you all mucho.
I have spoken to the manufacturer and they are sending me a shipping label to return this one and are sending me another.
Is there a priority on what spare tubes to get first or to keep around? I got a modified Baldwin amp that I believe came from an organ. It consists of the following tubes.

3 12AU7 tubes 1 labeled Baldwin 2 Electro Harmonix
2 Harmon Kardon 7408 tubes
2 Baldwin 6L6GB tubes
1 Baldwin 54UGB tube

I've been listening to it for quite a bit now and I really like the sound it makes. Lots of subtle details have come out in various music I've been listening to. It isn't as forward as some SS amps I have. The previous owner said the tubes that it came with tested well but he didn't know the amount of hours total were on the tubes. I'd like to get the exact same versions of the tubes I currently have on the amp because I'm not exactly sure how to rebias the thing. I've priced out these tubes from Brent Jessee and it is getting bit pricey for me which is why I'm thinking about getting a couple of the necessary spares first.

Thanks in advance for the advise.
If it's a manual bias you need to know how to bias them first and formost. Only because I have never owned a tube that didn't need biasing after replacement. No matter what tube I 'roll' including input and driver tubes I always start at min bias to let them all warm up first (about 1/2 hr). Then I bias them low and check the bias every 1/2 hr or so. Then I check again on a daily basis for the next few days. I have seen tubes take several days to settle down and stay properly biased.

That being said I will admit that 'factory' matched tubes can be very poorly matched. Something I learned from Jim McShane when I bought some GL KT88's and SED EL34's. I brought my 'factory' matched EL34's to Jim and he showed me how far away they were from a 'good' match.

Good Luck
Xti16 I couldn't agree more. Running an output tube on a machine for 10-15 mins. is a waste of time. Many output tubes require 24 hrs. for the innards to stabilize. I just got done installing new output EL-34's in a Conrad Johnson Amp. And sure enough with brand new tested tubes one of the Wing C EL-34's started to run away.... You have to be vigilante.
Jim McShane is really excellent for buying current production tubes well matched. Brent Jesse and Andy at Vintage Tube Services are excellent for NOS - I mean when you get your amp back a decide whether or not you like it.

TVAD, on the resistor-as-fuse amps, it is unfortunate that one of the best sounding amps I have owned and ever heard operates like that - CAT JL2 - the designer thinks fuses screwup the sound - I sold the amp and bought from a fella who thinks that not have an amp fry when a tube fails is important.