Grounding ?


Guys,

I currently have a cheater plug on my amplifier which made a substantial difference in clarity and focus. I read somewhere that the amp should be grounded and to use a cheater plug on another unit. Which component should I use the cheater plug on, Pre, CD player or DA?

Thanks,
Wig
128x128wig
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Jea48, this could be true, but before agreeing I would like to research it. You already know that many preamps as well as power amps are two wire, that don't provide a third wire for grounding. In addition there are non-shielded interconnects that only use the center wire. Not observing how your interconnects are designed as well as your gear could produce the perfect storm.
Bob_R
I believe your statement would be true IF there were no hot/neutral reverse wiring. I do NOT mean the outlet, the condition of which is easily seen with an easily purchased outlet tester, but internal to each piece of gear. Does that make any sense?

There can only be current flow if ground potential is different between each piece. An easy way to determine this would be to plug everything in than measure chassis-2-chassis with a decent DVM.

Given the sensitivity of the gear involved, there doesn't have to be much current, either.
If you're really paranoid you can simply connect the chassis of the primary grounded component (typically preamp) to the chassis' of other componentry. Any reasonable size (black insulation color for appearance) (14awg & stranded for flexibility) household electrical wire with spade or ring tongue crimp lugs should be more than sufficient. Basic creativity should suffice; loosen a chassis screw on the back panels & tie the lugs thereto.

However if it was me I absolutely wouldn't bother (take a hint from Milimetr) but I would never advise someone else against safety grounding for liability reasons alone. Perceive the implication, vs. the statement. In regard to sound quality now that's the issue, which many might be more likely to focus on.

Yes you can simply voltmeter-probe to the chassis, with the other probe referenced to an AC outlet ground, to check for stray leakages. The compoment would be energised but not cabled to anything else. You need to probe on a bare metal surface or press the probe tip down hard to penetrate the paint; judiciously of course and in a strategic location (such as the bottom panel) so as not to harm the finish.
Bob_b
Yes I am paranoid, but that doesn't matter in this case.
My personal system has NO hum or other internal noise issues.

My recommendation is to check NOT to ground, but between system components. IF there is voltage present, I would consider swapping hot/neutral where the power pigtail gets to the first terminal strip or whatever.
Once everything agrees, the hum should disappear?