Are ML CLS speakers a match with SS BAT amps?

Dchazen, the CLS should be able to provide excellent bass down to its design limits as I mentioned - and that's regardless of amp type as long as the amp is a 100W+ toobie (with a damping factor greater than 14) or a 150W+ SS. And it's good that you have the panels off the floor.

Now, there may be other factors compromising their bass performance:

1. If you ARE using a tube amp, you want speaker cables no longer than 2.5 meters (~ 8ft) to get the most out of a tube amp's limited damping. The shorter the better.
2. Make sure you are using a LOW CAPACITANCE speaker cable. This is essential for good stat performance, expecially bass. This means, for instance, NO Cardas speaker cables, which all have capacitance over 400 picofarads per foot. Electrostats require speaker cables with less than 20 picofarads per foot. You can test my advice by going to Home Depot and buying four lengths of 12AWG insulated solid copper wire and hooking your speakers up with it ;-)
3. Another very likely culprit are your TWO subwoofers, which, depending on where they are placed, and their phase, level, and crossover point settings, may actually be cancelling the CLS's output at certain low frequencies. So let me give you my little prepared speech on subwoofers:
a. The human brain cannot locate the source of frequencies below 100 Hz. A true "subwoofer" should be operating below 100Hz, and with CLS's. below 40Hz, so having TWO subs (operating below 100Hz) will NOT contribute to "stereo". And the main speakers, unless they are monitors on stands, should certainly go down to 60Hz or less before thay start rolling off - and that's where your "stereo bass" should be coming from.
b. Subwoofer placement is critical for proper integration with the main speakers; and placing two subs is much, much harder than placing one - so why bother? (unless you're living in a cathedral and need more bass output;-) And if you ARE living in a cathedral, you can put them at the back of the cathedral.
c. And it's damn near impossible to properly locate two subs if your main speakers are panels! This is because, unlike conventional loudspeakers, panels have two out-of-phase radiation patterns. The the sound wave from the front of the panel is 180 degrees OUT OF PHASE with the sound wave coming from the rear (and yes, the front and back waves cancel each other at the edges of the panels.) That is why with panel speakers, the best place for a sub is smack in between (and right even with) the panels, AND set at 90 degree phase angle, which splits the difference and matches the the phase of the two mains at that location. The ML Depth or Descent, with its omnidirectional radiation pattern (due to the three drivers facing in three directions) are ideal for such placement.

This may all sound counter-intuitive to you, but I beg you indulge an old man, who studied acoustics at MIT ;-)

Thanks.
.

Thanks Nsgarch. However, I have to disagree because I know what I heard from my CLS. The amp does make a difference on the bass. The SS ML3 @ 200W per channel handles the bass nicely. The late model tube ARC 200W mono amps, not as nicely. They are both highly rated amps in their own dominions. Maybe it was the particular ARC amp I used, but I have repeatedly read comments in forums that you generally give up something in bass tightness, definition and impact when a tube amp is used as compared to a SS amp. How did your CLS bass change, if at all, when you used the MC275 as compared to the ML23.5?

I have repeatedly read comments in forums that you generally give up something in bass tightness, definition and impact when a tube amp is used as compared to a SS amp.

Undoubtedly, these people are not doing EVERYTHING ELSE right, or that would not be their experience - trust me! And by the way, are we talking about their experience(s) strictly with CLS's; or with hybrid electrostats?

Tube amps put out a tight accurate bass signal, the same as any SS amp. What tube amps CANNOT do (very well, because of their damping limitations) is they cannot exercise tight control over big, sealed air-suspension cone woofers! However electrostats are quite easy to control, even the bass, even with tube amps, because their diaphragms are very light weight, AND they don't produce a reactive signal like electrodynamic (cone) speakers do.

You seem to be beating around the bush while trying to avoid putting my suggestions to the test -- and did you not own a pair of my favorite speakers, I wouldn't take the time to try and convince you ;-) So before you decide you don't agree with me, why don't you try implementing all the tips I gave you? I think you'll be quite pleasantly surprised:
>Speaker cables (low capacitance and under 8 feet)
>One sub, between the panels. 90 phase angle, 35Hz crossover, lowest possible volume.
>Oh, and make sure whatever preamp you're using has a low enough output impedance to drive a tube amp easily. It should be a tenth (or less) of the (tube) amp's input impedance, or you will get high and low frequency rolloff.