Cary 120s

One of the problems I had with the 120s is that it sounds poor with the stock tubes. At a minimum, I would expect an amp in this price range to sound excellent with a bit more performance gained through tube rolling. With the 120s, tube rolling is a must. In addition, this amp runs really hot, a lot hotter than other 6550 based amps with that many tubes. My friend runs his without the bottom cover on to aid in ventilation (he has no pets or kids to worry about curious fingers or paws). The quality and fit of the 120s is not up to Cary’s regular standards. When purchasing a 120s, you must factor in replacement tubes over stock, which pushes the 120s price point even higher. The 120s is not my cup of tea, but that is why Cary has so many different amps in their lineup…one size does not fit all.

As an aside, I don’t think that the Classe DR6 is a differential balanced pre amplifier; take a look at the LR output to see if pin 1 and 3 are tied together.

Brf,

I do agree that the stock tubes are really poor, but once you upgrade these it takes the amp to a whole new level. This actually explans why you have a number of them listed for sale. Of course these upgraded tubes do not come cheap so folk either decide to upgrade or get rid of it.

As far as it running hot, I not feel it does, well it is all relative. One person hot may not apply to everyone.

The bottom line is for the current sale price, it getting a good amp. Invest a few more $$ and you will be happy.

I currently have two, will get rid of one will definately keep the other.

I have limited hours on my 120S (approx 30) so the amp has not reached break-in. I agree with BRF regarding build quality compared to my SLI50 or VAC amp, the speaker binding posts feel cheap (can't use a hex driver) and the chassis exhibits a lot of resonance when tightening the cables (thin sheet metal sound).

I'm in AZ and we recently shot back into the 100 degree days and the Cary makes significantly more heat than the VAC so I've given it a rest until the weather cools off.

My initial impressions in the ultralinear mode is a transistor sound which lacks resolution of fine details and less impact in the bass than I expected. It sounds much better in Triode with a relaxing somewhat distant perspective and much better low level detail. The soundstage is much smaller than the VAC. At this point, I wouldn't characterize it as being an amp that would would want to boogie (more cerebral and introspective). I would say it is more relaxed and less "live" sounding than the VAC. I have not changed tubes and am currently using the stock power cord for break-in. Once the break-in is reached, I will switch to the Nordost Brahma which I use on the rest of my components and see what that does.

One operational negative so far is that I hear hum through the speakers with the volume control past 11:00. This amp has less gain than the VAC and I find it needs more volume especially with the phono stage and then I hear a hum through the speakers which cheater plugs does not change. The VAC does not produce any hum at any volume level. Other than that, it has worked reliably and the bias adjustment is simple.

There is lots of good info here, thanks guys...
Even used, around $2.1k + is at the very upper end of my budget.
Maybe a rocket 88 at sub $1k pricepoint might be a nice intro into Cary products for me.

If I like the 88,I could always sell it and upgrade to a 120s later with little to no cash loss.

Brf, the classe dr6 has xlr balanced input and output connections on it..... It is the best piece of gear I currently have and was used as the reference preamp by the absolute sound editor for several years in the early 90's when it was a current model.

I just thought if you had balanced xlr outputs on your preamp that it means it is balanced circuitry...... I am new to high end gear so maybe that is wrong??

Thanks,Dave

Another option would be to purchase a Rocket 88 amps and have the caps upgraded to either 1) Cardas Teflon caps or 2) Mundorf Gold/Silver/Oil depending on your preference. Add in some NOS tubes, a few resistor (Riken) upgrades, ERS sound damping material, and you are go to go for well under $2K!