Wire the House A/C or get Power Conditioner?

Rushton;
Interesting view on isolated grounds . Your method may be less involved .

How would you address the noise/interference issue , transmitted through the lines , from things like digital equipment , electric motors and flourecent lighting ?
I don't understand how you are 'isolating' the dedicated lines from the rest of the household system if you are connecting everything to the same ground .

Oh , and a happy electrcian often does better & 'more' work than an aggravated one ! And may charge less !

However , I will admit to running my lines with 10g. wire , which did receive a comment !
But I also fished all of that wire from the panel to the box's and pounded the ground rod , in the middle of a Florida summer !

No flames , just knowledge .

what's the best bang for buck power conditioner? PS audio?

I like the APC s15 or s20. PS Audio's are great too, but don't have the batter back up.

Saki70, as explained by an Audiogon member who is an electrician in another Audiogon thread several years ago (that I can't find now), what the isolated ground does is prevent the ground from being connected to the chassis of the receptacle. With both isolated ground and a non-isolated ground installations, the ground comes back to exactly the same place on the bus bar of the breaker panel. The only difference is in whether the ground is connected to the chassis of the receptacle.

If the receptacle and enclosing outlet box are attached to metal studs in commercial construction, the chassis is now making contact with the metal stud and hence to the rest of the building structure. With the ground being connected to the chassis (not isolated), your ground is now connected to the entire building structure. That can make for all sorts of noise, interference and hum possibilities. So, in commercial construction, you'd absolutely want to isolate the ground from the chassis: i.e., use an isolated ground receptacle and wiring installation.

On the other hand, in wood stud construction, the outlet and chassis are nailed to the non-conductive wood stud. There is nothing from which you need to isolate the ground. It no longer matters that the ground wire is not isolated from the chassis of the receptacle.

There is one other possible factor and that is the possibility of the fourth wire in the isolated ground installation providing some EFI drain or shielding for the length of cable back to the circuit panel. I don't know about that contention. I think you'd be better served by taking the trouble to twist the wires which make up the cable if you're trying to get maximum EFI rejection along the length of the cable.
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Rushton ;
I am not trying to argue with you . You seem knowledgable . I am just trying to learn and maybe help others too .
Does that explanation also apply when you connect the isolated circuit grounds to a seperate grounding bar inside of the panel ?
This grounding bar is mounted using rubber insulater pads and connected to a seperate ground wire that goes to a seperate ground rod installed 6 ft. away from the original rod .
It has been a while so I may be reaching now , but I seem to remeber that the recepticles are also different for an isolated ground system . Mine are red , which I believe denotes hospital grade , and have a green dot and an upside down black triangle on them .
This is the procedure that I found when I googled 'Isolated ground' and it is the way that my two circuits are installed .
As I stated before , when I called an electrician company , they sent out a residentual electrician who stated that he knew what I was talking about . When I gave him the parts that I had purchased , it was clear that he did not , and he called a coworker who did commercial installations . It was that coworker who came out and did the installation at my house .