As Roger Modjeski explained it to me, the tubes don't work as hard driving an 8 ohm load from the amp's 4ohm tap as they do from the 8 ohm tap - they last longer because they are not working as hard. You lose 20% of the power with this configuration, so my 160 watt (8 ohm tap into 8 ohm load) Music Reference RM9 feeding my 8 ohm Merlins, only put out 128 watts from the 4 ohm tap into that load. If you google Roger Modjeski and Light Loading, you should find the info, it is also discussed in the 6moons review of the RM10 MKII.
Impendance taps setting on a tube amp
I have decided to try out the Rouge Audio Cronus Magnum integrated amp before I upgrade my speakers. Reading a Cronus review, I understand that the amp comes factory wired to the 8 Ohms taps. To switch to the 4 Ohms setting you actually have to remove the cover and fiddle with the wires a little. The 6-Moons reviewer suggested requesting that the amp be wired to match the owner's speakers' impedance to avoid having to do it yourself.
I currently have the Totem Hawks speakers, which have a nominal impedance of 6 ohms. Here's a quote I got from Totem: "The Hawk exhibits a nominal 6 ohm impedance that is very constant throughout the ban. The minimum is 5.2 ohms."
Given this information, what would be the optimal setting: 4 or 8 Ohms? Should I try both and see what works best? That's pretty much what RA recommended, but I wanted to see what others think or perhaps faced a similar dilemma.
Thank you.
I currently have the Totem Hawks speakers, which have a nominal impedance of 6 ohms. Here's a quote I got from Totem: "The Hawk exhibits a nominal 6 ohm impedance that is very constant throughout the ban. The minimum is 5.2 ohms."
Given this information, what would be the optimal setting: 4 or 8 Ohms? Should I try both and see what works best? That's pretty much what RA recommended, but I wanted to see what others think or perhaps faced a similar dilemma.
Thank you.
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- 16 posts total
- 16 posts total