Amp Power Conditioner or not?

Jiminlogansquare...it's my understanding that power conditioners do not just fix/tweak/adjust, to use your words, the power from the wall but also address issues created by our equipment as well as interaction between all the equipment as a whole. as far as how to measure it, i have no idea...

Way back quite a few years ago I had a Sunfire true subwoofer that added more than just extra bass.
When I unplugged it from the wall and out of the system, the music was much easier to listen to and it seemed as if there was less distortion to the music.

My friend is an electrical engineer and he brought over one of his tools of the trade and sure enough that Sunfire sub was spewing all sorts of nasty spikes into the system.
Taking it out of the link and out of the wall plug, and the print out was more clean.

So, that brings us to just how much noise and "bad" things are poluting our audio systems that unless you see it on a print out, you'll never know is there.

But it is there all day, 24/7, just less when most people are asleep, hence the "system sounds better late at nite" syndrom.

I run my class D power amps into a Shunyata Hydra 2, using Annaconda power cords all around and into a dedicated 30 amp,line.

I run all my source gear into a Furman balanced power condition, IT 1220(20 amp)from another dedicated 20 amp line, both on the same phase at the panel.

There is absolutely no noise, hiss, hum , buzz, or snap crackle or pop from my system and it sound as good during the day as it does at nite(well maybe not quite as good).

The best way I have found to find out if you need to do some kind of power conditioning is to try some of the good ones(yes the expensive ones, not the power bar, computer type spike suppressors)have a listen, then go back to wallplugging and have a listen, and then put the power conditoner in for a final listen.

You only know how much the PC's are doing ,when you take them out and then re-insert them.

Personally, my system has never sounded so good until I took care of the power going into my gear.
Next to doing something about room taming,getting the power"cleaned up" to my gear has made more of a noticeable improvement than any recent interconnect or speaker wire changes have.

As noted elsewhere,cheap power conditoners on amps that they were not designed for has given all power conditioning a bad rap.

Bryston never subscribed to using a power conditioner on any of their amps, but now endorse the Torus line.
Yes they sell Torus,but until it came along nothing really worked on their amps.

All I will say if you can even Home audition a Torus,
I quite confident,you won't want to take her back.
They are that good and the improvements are Superb.
They are pricey,but for MUSIC they are well worth it.
I have tried a few others,one that everybody knows and the Torus leaves it way behind.
Some of them will let you have the 15a or 20a from the wall,
the Torus will give you 50-400a(short term)when the amps want
it).That makes a HUGE difference the way the music is played.
If it came to selling a component or amp,I'd sell those and keep my Torus(s),they're that good.
It's free to audition and then you will know.

Here's my experience in brief... To paraphrase what Rrog said, if you want true power conditioning get a generator; nothing else comes close or completely solves the problem, not even so-called dedicated lines, unless you are wired directly from a separate winding in the utility's power transformer - something that doesn't usually happen.

I do plug in my amps to a power "conditioner" - an MIT Z Stabilizer - but it's because they employ parallel conditioning, which can still get in the way, despite the fact that all they do is convert some line noise to heat. So how can it get in the way? Simply, the parallel circuits alter the line impedance, therefore amps may or may not be immune to that. The MIT Z Stabilizer that I use also touts impedance stabilization, which in electrical engineering is a good thing - this was the critical question for me, not the fact that it also reduces line noise (which most such products do, but with all kinds of other ill effects).

In the end, the result is positive with this product and these amps, and this statement cannot be generalized. Bottom line: unless you have a real problem, plug them directly to the wall. Otherwise, prepare to experiment a lot, and I would avoid anything that offers in-series circuits, including isolation transformers.

Excuse me , but I have to jump in here. I'm in a Power Technology course right now studying power transmission. An isolation transformer is what utility companies use to take the spikes out of the system. I didn't know they made small ones for the home but,theoreticly,if it is built right with the right materials it will give you a labratory grade sine wave.