2. amps-preamps
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Using Receiver as a Switcher?

I currently have a Marantz SR7002 receiver powering my Vienna Acoustics Beethoven Concert Grands. When I was at Best Buy Magnolia I decided to stop by and see what their VA Mozarts sounded like by comparison. To my chagrin, they sounded better/clearer to my ears in the mids and highs. I'm not sure how much of this may be due to the room acoustics, but I noticed they had a Denon DRA-CX3 integrated amp powering the Mozarts.

I really have three questions. First, is the DRA-CX3 really THAT much better than the Marantz SR7002? My dad seems to be under the impression that as long as an amp has the power to drive the speakers without distortion (and it's not a tube amp), then there should be an extremely negligible difference in sound quality between amplifiers, and that what I have is fine, and I'll be disappointed if I shell out the cash for an upgrade, and that room acoustics are way more important. I don't think he's very accurate in his assessment, but I'd rather ask you guys. I'm basically assuming he's wrong, but under this assumption, still is the difference really THAT big between the Marantz and the Denon?

Second, if I do get the DRA-CX3 (which for only 570 on listenup right now is a real temptation), is there a way to use my Marantz as simply a switcher, and use the pre and power amps on the Denon? Giving up my switching capabilities would be terrible.

Third, for the extremely reduced $570 price tag on the Denon at the moment, would I be better off getting a standalone power amp at that price, and using my Marantz as a pre (which I know I can do)?

Thanks for taking your time to read this post, and please help!
sweetnumb
mceljo
1,356 posts
 
From what my electrical engineering buddy has told me, you can judge the power output on your amplifier to a certain degree if you have a volume that reads in minus dB. At 0 dB you are providing 100% amplifier power and something like -3dB is half power. I have a few CDs that I can listen to at, or near, zero, but the majority are at a volume lower than -10dB.

Maybe someone else will correct me on this or provide more insight.

Also, the Denon is listed as 4 ohm (high current) capable, but I'm sure the Marantz is as well. The specs should indicate the rated speaker range of either 4 ohms to 16 ohms or possibly 6 ohms to 16 ohms. If it isn't rated for 4 ohms I think you'll like the Denon.
hotmailjbc
571 posts
 
changing electronics for slight improvemeents is the audio industries version of 3 card monte. i,m sticking with well built well designed value orinted gear and making adjustments in things that clearly seem to matter to me.. better signal sources as in a great cd player. room acoutic treatment and good isolation strategies. and find the wire and interconnects that perform as advertised. this is hard to do but once you find something that works it is rewarding. thanks john. then spend money on a music collection
hifihvn
943 posts
 
I haven't heard the speakers to compare them.But one thing to consider is the power rating doesn't affect the sound if your within their power output capabilities.The Denon puts out less than 50 watts a channel.Is that going to be enough power for you?It(the Denon) may just have a simular design as their receivers.If it concerns you a lot,see if you could try one with a return policy.A lot of this newer gear doesn't give the true power output ratings that gives the true older FTC ratings anymore.They either made the laws easier,or they have found loopholes.The high end companies usually give the true output,or real close to it.If it was me,I would bring something familiar(cd) with me and listen to them again.This time make sure they DON'T have the bass and treble turned up.Best Buy,and other box stores have a bad habit of doing it.It's not fair to the customers,or other companies that make speakers,etc.This would be my first move.Double check the tone,equalizer controls yourself also,and make sure their set flat,or turned off.
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yogiboy's avatar
yogiboy
5,641 posts
 
The true power rating of a good amp will show a power rating 8 ohms from 20 to 20,000 hz and will almost double at 4 ohms. Now it seems like all smoke and mirrors the way they rate power ratings. I laugh when I see these cheaper amps with big impressive specs but they are just not in the same league as the real stuff.
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