Tweaking the Magnepan 1.7s

Good for you, Josh.

Try 'em all 4 ways for that matter....tweeter in / out and Mylar front/back.

I wonder if Magnepan started shipping with the tweeter resistor at about the same time as they flipped 'em to pole piece back?

I've tried absolute phase swapping and hear little difference on MOST material.
My sub, however, appreciated the phase switch being flipped after I rotated the panels.....Makes perfect sense.

I'm not sure when they started shipping the tweeter resistor. I confess I'm one of those who's reluctant to use it, because I don't like the shelf effect on the frequency response. This may not apply to the 1.7, I'm not even sure where it's wired/what the crossover points are! But it seems to me that some kind of adjustment is necessary in any wide dispersion speaker, since room acoustics are going to change the HF balance and not everyone has the option of tuning their listening room.

Josh358... The resistor "shelf effect" counteracts the shelf effect which exists when no resistor is used due to the greater sensitivity of the tweeter. The resistor is simply in series with the signal feed to the tweeter section of the crossover.

You don't have to use a resistor, and if you do you can pick the value. That's nice of Magnapan.

Has anyone tried using the Walker hi definition links
with the 1.7? I am planning on getting the new maggies
soon and have a set of links to use. other than the
difficulties with using spade to banana adapters, what
else could present a problem?

I have had my pair of 1.7's since about April. Owned MG1B's and MGIIIA's for a long time before, listened and liked the MG1.6's but not enough to pull out my wallet for the difference.
The 1.7's have that critical quality for bass realism, weight that is satisfying to a tuba player and low mid range tonal accuracy. The 1.7's on initial listen caused me the same reaction as the IIIA ribbon tweeter, a little bright so used the 1ohm resistor. Over a few months I realized the brightness was a source issue, that my Linn Genki and Oppo 971HD weren't handling the highs musically, into my DAC creating listening fatigue. I now use my PC with an HRT Music Streamer II USB DAC and Foobar2000 as a music player to feed a CJ PV10A and Musical Concepts modded Hafler. The 1 ohm resistor is out, just the stock jumper, sounds gorgeous with 24/96 tracks and the 20 bit HDCD RR recordings that DBPoweramp allows me to decode and rip.

As to tweaks to make your sound better
1) get idle cone speakers out of the room unless they are small. Idle cone speakers resonate and collapse sound stage... good Linn dealers can demonstrate.
2) consider the mye stands or any other like alternative the will brace top and bottom of the panel and tie solidly into the floor. A tall panel speaker like the MG 1.7 with foot stands producing music is like a car engine flopping around on broken motor mounts. It will damp/blur your transient peaks if you leave the panel free to move.

I don't recommend leaving out the fuses... it only takes 1 power hit to make your tweeters toast... been there. Fuses and jumper substitution doesn't have a science to it but won't break the piggy bank either.

Enjoy, if yours sound bright/fatiguing as mine did at first look very hard look at your source equipment