Dollar to Satisfaction Ratio not met.

Probably the main contributor to the problems you are hearing is that the output impedance of the BAT and the input impedance of the DNA-500 are not a good match.

Stereophile's measurements of the VK-51SE indicate a sharp rise in output impedance from 410 ohms across most of the audio band to 4700 ohms at 20Hz. That will result in a significant deep bass rolloff when driving the DNA-500's relatively low 10,000 ohm input impedance. Higher frequencies may also be affected, to the extent that the two impedances vary differently as a function of frequency.

I note, btw, that the input impedance of DNA-225 is far higher than that of the DNA-500, 100K instead of 10K. 100K is an excellent match for the BAT's output impedance.

Another factor might be that if overall gains and sensitivities in the system are such that you are using the BAT's volume control in the upper part of its range, that apparently causes its frequency response to deteriorate considerably. That occurs even when amplifier input impedance is high. See Figure 2 of the Stereophile measurements.

The only solution I can think of that does not involve changing or modifying components would be to add something like a Burson AB160XLR balanced buffer between the two components. That would resolve the impedance matching issue. That particular buffer also apparently provides up to 6db of gain, so you would be using the BAT's volume control at somewhat lower settings, thereby helping the second problem I mentioned, if it is a problem.

Regards,
-- Al

An additional thought: How are you hooking up the sub(s)? I don't know whether or not the two XLR output connectors for each channel that are apparently provided on the BAT are individually buffered, but I would guess that they are not. If that is the case, and if you are connecting a sub to one of those two sets of outputs, that will make the impedance mismatch I described even worse (by a considerable amount, if as is often the case the input impedance of the sub is not high).

If the sub(s) have speaker-level inputs, connecting them to the amplifier outputs would resolve that aspect of the problem, although the preamp-to-power amp mismatch would remain.

Regards,
-- Al

Larry, Michael you do pose a solid question and sound reasoning. While I did find synergy with certain pairing of my equipment, I'm searching for a solution that would allow satisfaction with all pieces I choose to pair at any given time. It's just one of those things and I do thank you for your input, but I couln't part with theses pieces, it's truly nice equipment. Al, thank you for the ' Burson ' suggestion. In having read somethings on it I think it's worth a try. My sub ( HSU UL-15 ) connection is XLR out from the BAT to XLR in at the sub, at 21' per XLR cable. I do have a Behringer DEQ 1246 (?) RTA/DAC/EQ that I was thinking about placing between the preamp and sub since it has provisions for subwoofer/s. I admit I'm not much in the way of calculating impedance curves and such, just one who loves this audio hobby to the last breath. Any ideas regarding the Behringer additions? I will continue reading about the Burson, and I'm pretty sure it will be added soon. Thank you all for your assistance, this is what makes this hobby a true joy, audio friends!!!!!!

James

Hi James,

I couldn't find an input impedance spec for the line-level inputs of the Hsu sub. But I would feel pretty certain that the Burson buffer would have no problems driving the combined input impedances of the DNA-500 and either the sub or the Behringer. You would need an xlr y-adapter, such as one of these, to drive the two components from the Burson.

If your Behringer model is the DEQ2496, which is indicated here as having a 22K input impedance on its analog inputs, or if it is another model that is similar in that respect, it cannot be driven by the BAT without significant deep bass rolloff, even if no power amp were connected. But again, that load in combination with the input impedance of the DNA-500 should be no problem for the Burson buffer, or for most other comparable devices.

Regards,
-- Al

James, here's some straight ahead advice for you, as you stated, "I'm searching for a solution that would allow satisfaction with all pieces I choose to pair at any given time. It's just one of those things and I do thank you for your input, but I couln't part with theses pieces, it's truly nice equipment."

Then expect continued disappointment. When a match doesn't work, it doesn't work, and any additional use of that match will result in diminished returns. Barring some problem with the equipment, there are poor matches in gear which will never yield optimum results.

Can things be improved? Sure; you can continue to try different cables including power cords, jack up the quality of the source with an upgrade DAC and a fine grade digital cable, and perhaps a speaker upgrade or roll tubes in the BAT. In the end you could spend a lot more time and money - and still get mediocre/unsatisfactory results, all for the sake of being stubborn. :)

A component match "mistake" is a mistake, whether we emotionally want to accept it or not. Maybe you bought these and do not want to take a loss on selling one, or they were in the family prior, or perhaps WFA (Wife Financial Acceptance) factors into things. Whatever reason, if your goal is the best sound then continuing to use that set is a hindrance to your satisfaction.

This certainly demonstrates that simply tossing together well known names does not ensure the sound will be to one's liking. It would truly be a shame if this occurred as a consequence of a recommendation and you spent a boatload of money. Tough lesson, but not fatal. There are many people here who learned the hard way, took their lumps and became smarter component shoppers over time.

BTW, don't think that you'll be sure to hit the jackpot sonically next time if you employ a "hit or miss" methodology. Random selection of gear is not nearly as likely to result in success as doing one's homework, i.e. making trips to hear gear, going to an audio show, discussing the sound of various equipment with owners and dealers, talking to the manufacturer if possible about recommended matches, and reading reviews (I am a reviewer).

Now, if you don't want to believe the bulk of this input, but want to be hard-headed about it, that's also just one of those things. The gear won't magically transform on its own; only a component change will cause that, as had been astutely presented previously. Putting together audio systems is a pretty good way of humbling a person, as those who think they're really sharp will find out quickly that just because we think we can assemble a killer sounding rig by our logic, reality often doesn't work that way.

If I've been too hard on you, my apologies. However, it appears like you're resisting admitting the combo was not to your liking and refusing to accept the implications (i.e. having to take a loss in selling a component, or having to return to square one in searching for another).

Once again, you said, "I'm searching for a solution that would allow satisfaction with all pieces I choose to pair at any given time." If you could find an elegant answer to that, you'd be a very wealthy man. I've got decades of experience in audiophilia and have built dozens and dozens of systems and can assure you that "solution" does not exist - unless you opt for putting up with what you deem inferior sound.