Magnepan 1.7 too bright, HELP

I found that the gold hifi tuning fuses had a greater effect than the 1 ohm resister (approx $80). Second buy a pair of ATS Acoustic panels and place them on the wall behind your speakers ($120 shipped) to reduce reverb. The tweeter jumpers are also a source of brightness, try the cardas jumpers sold at dedicatedaudio.com ($40). The 1.7's have a horrible tendency of revealing dirty electricity. This is a costly problem. I found an excellent solution at blue circle called the PLC Thingee FX2 (weird name for a weird looking device). I can plug the entire system into it and not have any effect on dynamics. It had the most impact on reducing harshness ($320 or the lower model $220).

I second the NAD equipment, the M3 has been well suited for the speakers. A similar source unit is the Oppo 95, very smooth sounding player. Try to get as much Cardas cables into the system. Golden Cross interconnects if the brightness issue is really bad, Golden reference if you can. The Neutral's will take away too much details, but you can listen to the system all day long with the Cardas Neutral's. If you are having to play the speakers loud to derive lot's of bass you'll need a lot of acoustic panels in your room. You could consider adding a small REL subwoofer to help with the bass and play the speakers at a lower volume. A Martin Logan Grotto i could also do the trick. I've had luck with ESP reference power cables (most balance and smooth cable I found), but I wish I new of a lower cost alternative. If you are running low-end speaker cables you may want to try Clear Day Cables. They will lower distortion, provide ample deep bass, and present exactly what's being fed to the speakers. They are the best value for the $ in my opinion and compared very well with purist audio cables costing several times as much. They will be revealing on the top end, but without added harshness. Lastly, if all else fail's use the plastic rings provided with the stands to tilt the speakers back. This will fire the highs upwards and you'll hear more bass. However, you will lose top-end details.

I love the Magnepan's but they have cost a lot to get right. However, I demo'd them along with the Martin Logan Vantages and found the Vantages to be even more harsh running on the same McIntosh set-up. I wish I still had my old Martin Logan Accent i's to compare side by side. I actually used those speakers with windows behind them! System was simple with a Consonance Calaf (warning not reliable), Consonance CD120, Wireworld III cable's and ESP reference power cables. Threw in some Amprex PQ White Labels in the Calaf and life was great...

"I love the Magnepan's but they have cost a lot to get right." Magnepans are SO RIGHT; they reveal EVERYTHING and ANYTHING that's wrong, with the rest of your gear. That's the price of any ACCURATE/DETAILED speaker system.

fwiw this person got a different perspective with his 1.7's

http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?cspkr&1332030982&&&/Magnepan-1-7-w-Tubes-lots-of-Class-D-Pow

Just to follow up, the 1.7's do sound incredible once you have the right components, cables, power conditioning and room treatment. Didn't mean to offend anyone. I can say my current solid state setup does not have any issue with brightness. It's smooth, dynamic and very revealing with a massive soundstage. So I don't think there is an issue with the design of the 1.7's, but one does have to budget extra to get things right (indeed my fault for not realizing that early on) and expect a lot of trial and error. The magazines reviewing these speakers have reference equipment and rooms. Lot's of us buying 1.7's do not, however the low cost tweaks in my prior post can help reduce brightness greatly. Having listened to MG20's for years I do agree with those pointing out differences with the older models, the sound is different. The 1.7's sound closer to planer's from Analysis Audio. Very life like and have more "attack." Because the 1.7's have the ability to reproduce instruments in such a truthful manner any flaws within the system (down to fuses and each power cord) will be highlighted. Perhaps, it may be easier to have a tube component or two in the system, but I have not had the opportunity to try that. Maybe a Rogue Audio Tempest with a Raysonic CD-128 would be a nice combo.

For those that can't get the 1.7's to work or those that are building a 5K-ish system with a strict budget, try an old pair of Martin Logan Accent i's if you can find them. It would not be up to the level of the 1.7's, but the old electrostat's sound excellent, IMO are easier to place in a room and start listening, and the woofers offer much more bass.

you actually don't need to buy anything to bypass the magnepan 1.7 tweeter jumper. Just remove the 4 screws holding the plate onto the speaker, take a wrench and remove the nut and wire on the back of the jumper on 1 side, put the nut back on. Then remove the nut on the other side, slip the wire over and put the nut back on. At that point the jumper is out of the circuit. Be sure that you are doing this on the jumper and not the speaker wire inputs.