Preamp Deal of the Century


If anyone is looking for a true "World Class" preamp at a very fair price..heed my advice. I just recieved a Supratek Syrah preamp that was hand built by Mick Maloney in Western Australia, and it is absolutely beautiful! This preamp is the best deal you will ever find. I would put it up against any preamp out there for both looks and sound. Price? $2500 for the Syrah (includes Killer Phono stage). Not into phono? Try the Chardonney line stage for $2100. Don't get me wrong, I am not associated with this company. I am just a very happy owner! This preamp is VERY dynamic, yet liquid. It conveys the sound of music better than any other preamp that I have ever heard! You can check out the Supratek website at www. cantech.net.au
slowhand
Hi Simon,

Just want to share my experience of power cord as well. Power cords make a big difference in sound, that's certain, and I had been through that game before. I must say I had spent more than a little fortune in experimenting with power cords and interconnects. I had been a Shunyta fan for sometime and I still own a original Hydra which is corian made and gorgeous looking. I had used two king cobra 2, 2 vipers, and 1 taipan at one time. Finally, at least in my system, I found them excellent in most aspects especially ambience and high frequency performance. It is as silky as you can imagine. But there is a severe drawback with them in my system, that is sound without a backbone. They softens the transient and attack such that a piano never sound right. I had tried PS audio, various NBS (including monitor 0), siltech, VDH, Taralabs, MIT and some others. Finally, I found that I likely most the raw sound with big gauge solid core copper power cord which preserves the transient and harmonics with the least addition or subtraction effect. I am using some cheap Acrotec 4050 (50amp) power cords through out my system, taking from a set of Exactpower EP15A + SP15A balance transformer system. I had use the Harmonix studio master also, long before the Supratek time. My humble impression is that it has an elegant sound, plus a golden colour on top. Its bottom is very clean and tight, its high beautiful but inadequately extended. It is not as transparent as I prefer (personal taste again, and system dependent, of course).

Lee
Hi Gang,

I just recieved my new Cortese yesterday. This thing is beautiful! A true work of art. I got the Sheoak with black top and gold knobs. The black top really shows off the Sheoak wood. It has a beautiful "lace" look to it. The pictures on Mick's website don't do it justice at all. I will be installing the tubes tonight. I took the bottom off and no wonder it is so heavy! Mick put the Mundorf Supreme caps in for me. He said they will take a long time to break in.

Here is my question for anyone that recently recieved a new Cortese. There is a toggle switch on the front right side which I assume is the play/HT bypass. Another toggle between the 2 towers. I think this is the stereo/mono switch. What has me stumped are the 2 toggle switches to the outside of the 6sn7 tube sockets. I have no idea what these are for or what position they should be in. Can anyone help me? I have an e-mail in to Mick. He forgot to send me and instrucion sheet. I will keep everyone informed as to the sound. My computer bit the dust, so I am just catching up on the thread. I know how you feel David.
slowhand:

if your cortese is anything like my chardonnay, the switch in the right front is mute (toward the front is off, toward the back is on), the switch between the towers is ht/bypass (front - off, back - on), and the switch on each side of the 6SN7 is high/low gain. toward the back is low gain. toward the front is high gain i believe. and there's another gain knob on the back as well. congrats.
Kgturner is correct. The switch layout on my Chenin is as described. HT bypass is between the towers, mute on/off front right side, switches closest to the 6SN7 tubes are high/low gain - left/right.