Bass tones and low cost tubes for a Jolida 502B


Hi everybody.

I asked in another thread looking for advice with the Jolida tubes but I decided open a new topic focus on it.

I have the Jolida 502B with Paradigm Monitor 11 speakers, with Xindaq DAC and reader, waiting to upgrade this periferials.

I really like to hear jazz as Joshua Reed, Herbie Hancock, Spyro Gyra, Chick Corea, Yellow Jackets... rock as Everything But The Girl, Depeche Mode, even Metalica or Rammstein... and electronic DJ"S as Armin Van Buuren, Oakenfold, Chicane, Enigma...

At this moment I have a Electro Harmonix salad in the Jolida, last owner legacy.

The sound that I have is very "shinny" or in excess sharp...with a feel of "we need a subwoffer", despite the Paradigme Monitor 11 and the 502B punch. I'm conscious about some room reflection yet but I can't improve it more...family matters :)

In my country Costa Rica, a $45 individual tube will cost around $110 with the custom taxes and shipping costs. So I have to be low profile about it.

I REALLY APPRECCIATE YOUR ADVICE ABOUT IT! I know is difficult but a good tube is a good tube and a poor brand too.

Reading the reviews on tube depot and tubestore on this tubes:

AX7
large plate AX7's ?? I read that this get more medium bass and tight bass presence:

- BLACK SABLE Sovtek 12AX7LPS
- SOVTEK 12AX7LPS Preamp Vacuum Tube
- JJ ECC803s / Hi-Performance 12AX7 / tubedepot.com

- Mullard 12AX7 / ECC83 / thetubestore.com
""Microphonics is not an issue despite the larger that average plate structure. The transconductance on my sample was the same as two NOS samples I measured. Not really high gain at all, but a real good noise floor and a nice smooth tone that doesn’t encourage ear fatigue the way some preamps can be."

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AT7's:

- 12AT7 / ECC81 Mullard / tubedepot.com

or

- Mullard 12AT7WA / CV4024 / thetubestore.com
"The NOS Mullard 12AT7WA / CV4024 tube is low noise and long lasting. This 12AT7 tube is a very good choice for hifi preamps, driver stages, and guitar amp reverb circuits. The Mullard 12AT7 is original production from Great Britain."
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For the KT88;s

- Sovtek 6550WE / tubedepot.com
"The Sovtek 6550WE has higher gain / output than most others and really has a ballsy sound. Recommended for any bass application and most Hi-Fi amps. This tube has a slight bump in the midrange making it a great choice for lead guitar."

- Sovtek KT88 / thetubestore.com
""The Sovtek KT88 tube has smooth, warm and clear with excellent imaging. The bass (except for the very bottom end) is tight and the high end is crystal clear. The separation of parts and balance is better than any of the 6550 tube types."

- JJ KT88 / thetubestore.com
"The JJ KT88 tube has the best imaging of all the tubes in this category. The bass is unique in that it compresses the very bottom end. This provides incredible bass response without ever losing control. Overall a great KT88 tube for orchestral, opera, and jazz music."
edoll
Thanks Cayin!! I read before that Sovtek's has pretty good construction and has a very good reliability.

Tonight I installed a quad match of KT88's EH that I received at final 2009 . Turn on the Jolida and plum! One of the left channel got blowed?

I'm in Costa Rica, I don't know if some transportation issue happened.

So, I'm back with the original 65550's EH....

So, I'm waiting for a little bit more of advice to put my order @tubedepot or tubestore, the only store's that I have some reference in USA.

Thanks buddy.
Before you swap power tubes on the Jolida you ought to set bias to the LOWEST and turn up accordingly.

Get a replacement KT88, they sound better than 6550Cs any day.

Also the glassy sound has everything to do with the cheap components in the amp.
Power supply: Filter caps, diodes.
Signal: Coupling caps
You need to find someone to upgrade the amp before it can really start playing music.

The transformers are world class and the amp has a lot of potential.
Thanks Johnsonwu, can you confirm if the bias is Bias Settings: 50 millivolts + 5 mV ?
Before you swap power tubes on the Jolida you ought to set bias to the LOWEST and turn up accordingly.
I agree 100% but would add when I swap tubes I turn the bias to minimum - volume down to minimum and let them warm up for about 20 min. At that point I start to bias them up BUT not all the way. That's when I start playing music but not too loud for about another 10 - 20 min and look to see if the bias changed. I have found as I turn the volume up the tube starts to really work and heat up which influences bias. After a minimum of an hour but 2 hrs is better is when I make the final adjustment. Also keep an eye on the bias for several days after that. What I have seen is the tubes could take several to completely settle down. I have also found new tubes typically take 200-300 hrs to sound what there are going to sound like from that point on.

That being said I have an Octave V70SE that uses the same tubes. I have found changing the input tube (12ax7) will make the biggest difference in sound. My favorite now is not a 12ax7 but the Rca 5751 which has a slightly lower gain but sounds so right. After all the input tube is the first stage in amplification. Garbage in garbage out.

The drivers (12at7) controls the output tubes. For the normal *transconductance tubes (pretty much any *current production tube) I really like the Brimar 6060 yellow T or Amperex bugle boy ecc81's. For high transconductance you really want the Gec A2900/CV6091. They have the highest gain in the 12at7 family which will completely support high transconductance tubes.

* normal transconductance have a gain around 7000 where high transconductance tubes are over 10,000. Examples of high transconductance tubes are Shuguang Psvane - Eat kt88 diamonds - Ei Kt90 - vintage Gec/Gold lion/Gold Monarch KT88's. Note the Eat KT88 retails for $1800USD/Quad where the Shuguang Psvane is under $500USD/Quad for grade 'A' matching.

Good Luck