Jadis OR bias value for Mullard RL34 and KT88 help

Hello Doctor. I did order the blue ones.
I also rearranged my listening environment to an area that has no hardwood reflection. The one thing that I feel is lacking is the sensation of being in a totally black void and just having the music suddenly just be there. KT88's did that for me. I am trying to recreate the same environment for the el34s.
I may try the KT77 tubes down the road, but I want to concentrate on the 88 and 34 shootout for the time being.
After I get the speakers aligned and the foam absortion set up, I think I will be in a better position to judge.

Great discussion, I am really enjoying. I always wanted a Jadis Orchestra to try out, but I already have four tube amps, maybe down the line a bit...

Heart attack, Mattzack2?!? WOW, that's serious in the kind of way we almost never get around here. Terrible news, I'm very sorry. I'm amazed how quickly you've gotten back into the game.

I've been in contact with JJ through the past year, and they maintain the blue and red glass have no influence on sonics. Years ago, a person (not at JJ) told me that to the degree the color (red, blue, clear) effect heat dissipation, sonics will follow. For whatever reason, the red tubes don't get imported by those who bring them in, as the blue was what folks went with in this market.

The Doctor and I participated in a JJ E34L vs JJ KT77 vs JJ KT88 shootout in the Jadis DA60 several years back, and drew some pretty stark conclusions from that. I'm not the fan of the JJ KT77 that most are. I've not heard the Gold Lion KT77, but hear good things about them. In the past year, I've purchased JJ EL34 and big bottle 6CA7 tubes. The EL34 have a more even-handed, fuller, richer sound top to bottom than the E34L, filling in that lower end. But, the E34L maintain that glorious midrange. As I just got the 6CA7 two weeks ago, and have been playing with other things of late, I've not yet tried them.

Doctor, the DA30 and DA60 are autobias (cathode bias) as you mentioned. In other words, the bias gets set by a "fixed" resistor connected to the cathode of the output tube, and cannot be adjusted without changing that resistor. The JOR is fixed bias, which means bias is set through a resistor connected to the control grid of the output tube. The term fixed bias is counter-intuitive, as it most often means that resistor is adjustable (potentiometer). A fixed bias amplifier can also employ a fixed resistor inline with the control grid of the output tube, which would not be adjustable without changing that resistor. Beyond having to manually adjust bias or not, cathode and fixed bias differ in their output power and sonic characteristics.

Hello again.
I just swapped the new el34l's into the amp about 15 minutes ago. I am initially setting the bias at 110mv for the time being. I will let them burn in for a few days and then check to see if the voltage had drifted at all.
By the way.... I blew the main fuse on the Jadis before I had enough time to read the voltages with the new tubes in. I set the pots to fully clockwise after replacing fuse and then slowly calibrated back up to 120mv just to get the feel of the voltage potential problems in this range and to make sure the tubes wouldn't blow the new fuse.
So I have a doctor appointment at 2:00 and plan on listening to some music tonight.
I am pretty excited to hear these new tubes break in. I am playing them pretty softly right now.
I have to run now. Thanks again.

I have about 120 hours on the new JJ tubes.
Trelia, much thanks. I love the tubes. The soundstage seems to be much deeper and detailed. I am going to enjoy it for awhile before I try any other rolling.
And thank you, Mechans, for your valued input. This has been a very positive change in the sound of the JOR.