Preamp Deal of the Century

Eh, I'm hoping the troll bit didn't refer to me?
Mick pointed me to a supplier in Australia but they don't seem to stock them so I'm still looking for a remote that accepts the 5 digit code and works with the Syrah?
My Syrahs always worked faultlessly except for the problem with the cheapo remote handset (nowt to do with supratek really).
Only wish I could say the same for the other Supratek pre I have it's a real pita!

simon:

you might consider buying a cheapie learning remote such as the universal remote control R7G (URC-R7G) and shipping it to someone who has a functioning supratek remote. i would be willing to program the learning remote with my supratek codes if you shipped it to me, but i'm in america. i'm sure there are some supratek owners in australia who would be able to help you out. otherwise, drop me a line and i'll get you my address information. good luck.

Hi Kg,

thanks for your offer :-) I'm actually in the UK.
I picked up a couple of cheapo universals but they only
provide for a 3 digit code.
I will try and find a universal that takes 5 digits.
The problem as far as I can see is that the learning remotes seem to depend on them being able to power down the
unit as they trawl through the codes which might make it awkward.

My remote was working to increase the volume but not the other way. I opened it up to try and fix it and now it doesn't work at all :-(

Cheers Simon

HI Guys,

Don't know if anyone is keeping up with the thread anymore, but I have a problem with my Cortese and I was wondering if anyone might be able to help.

I am getting a spitting static noise through one channel. I have fliped all the tubes and the noise still comes through the same channel. I have a friend looking at it now. He thinks it is one of the adjustable resistors in the line stage. He replaced them, but there is still noise in the same channel. He is going to check connections in the power supply next. He has already checked connections in the preamp and they seem to be ok.

Does anyone have any ideas?

Thanks,

Tom

IMHO,

When the usual hit or miss tube swapping troubleshooting technique fails, you have to have a freq generator and a scope to solve problems like this. This is not just a matter of what "looks" broken anymore.

Your tech friend, how did he come up with the decision of replacing the resistor first?

Tell him to isolate the PSU circuit to the actual amplifier circuit. By feeeding very low freq signal at the input, you can tell if the power supply is the one with a problem looking at the modulation, if any, of the B+ signal. At mid to higher frequencies, you could test the real amp section stages by stages, assuming that the usual downstream B+ voltages checks out as it decrease when being decoupled from the stages, and see where the noise is coming from.

Please ask your tech about those. If he does not understand what you are talking about, find a different tech. It would be helpful also to plot the schematic first before poking around with the scope so that you can easily follow which point checks out in relation to the diagram.

Hope it helps......