Preamp Deal of the Century

So, I tried the Mullard GZ33 tonight, and I like it a lot! I bought a pair, and both had good getter flashing, full lettering, and tested 100%+ on my tube tester (set to 5V4, 5U4 and 5AR4 settings). Compared to the GE 5AR4, the background is cleaner, the soundstage is more focused (I can tell more easily where the instruments are) and the bass is a bit tighter and deeper. Cymbals are cleaner and have more focus. I swapped the two tubes back and forth twice each (I didn't want to stress the preamp with too many rapid on/off cycles). It just sounded more powerful and focused with the GZ33 than the GE 5AR4 - I'm keeping it in.

So my current optimum combo is:

Mullard GZ33 rectifier
Sovtek KT-66 regulator
Ken-Rad 2C22/7193 output tube (sub for 6SN7)
Solen PP Caps (33uF and 100uF, 630V) for power supply

It sounds incredible, IMHO.

Those older late 50's,early 60's Mullard rectifier tubes have a certain magic to them that is truly musical. Legend has it that they were made by Elves in the Black Forest. Those same Elves today are making Keebler cookies. (O:

I had occasion to very recently e-mail Mick. My Chenin that I purchased direct from Down Under is still purring quite nicely. My question to Mick involved some machinations that I was doing for which I was seeking his advice. As when I was preparing to place my order, asking many questions, in as many e-mails, Mick responded to my most recent question quite promptly. Thanks Mick .!!!

For those folks that think it's risky to buy boutique equipment, I own three pieces, plus two others that are semi-boutique, and support for all, has been first rate. Moreover, performance to value has been far more than first rate.

Obviously, the phrases your mileage may vary, and let the buyer beware apply; however, for me, these purchases have been the most rewarding over the many years and purchases that I've made while being immersed in this crazy hobby!

More importantly, believe it or not, I’m probably more risk adverse than most; however, after beginning in this hobby well before the internet, my advice was from periodicals spouting all amps sounded the same etc The internet and sites such as this have changed all of that and thankfully so! I’ve found that a little risk has paid me back in a ratio that both the house wins and the buyer in my case, has never lost!

For all of those folks that want to keep their purchases coming from established company’s so be it. I wanted to continue working for General Motors 15 years ago, when my Division was sold. Today, well not so much !!

Cheers to all,

-Mike

So, I tried the Mullard GZ33 tonight, and I like it a lot! I bought a pair, and both had good getter flashing, full lettering, and tested 100%+ on my tube tester (set to 5V4, 5U4 and 5AR4 settings). Compared to the GE 5AR4, the background is cleaner, the soundstage is more focused (I can tell more easily where the instruments are) and the bass is a bit tighter and deeper. Cymbals are cleaner and have more focus. I swapped the two tubes back and forth twice each (I didn't want to stress the preamp with too many rapid on/off cycles). It just sounded more powerful and focused with the GZ33 than the GE 5AR4 - I'm keeping it in.

Hello,

Good for you! I hope you are posting this as a result of your "own" experiment only and not for the others who have no time to understand what is going on in the circuit to try.

With all due respect, are you saying that the preamp PSU (5V filament supply) rated for 5Y3/5AR4 current draw (2.0 amps) according to the circuit design is good for a GZ33 with current draw of 3.0 amps? Very dangerous situation for those who are not aware of this limitation I would say. Did you check the filament transformer rating of the rectifier supply or noticed any change in heat from the filament transformer? If not the proper rating and noticed an increase in heat from the PT, turning ON/OFF the unit as frequent to avoid stress to the PSU is the last thing I would be concerned of.

Another thing, the 5AR4 drops 17 V at 225 ma, the 5V4 is 25 Volts at 175 mA, the GZ33 being similar to the 5U4 drops 44 V at 225 mA for G/GA and 50 V at 275 mA for the GB. Not really the same (21/27 volts change!) and I bet that is why the change in sound because you are changing the OP of the tubes. A Mullard GZ33 cost a lot. It seems that a 25W aluminum ohmite dropping resistor on the B+ line will work also no?

Do you have a measurements of the B+ from GZ34 to GZ33 and see the difference? Since you are being adventurous, what is the reason why you did not try a 5U4?

I am only reporting back what has worked for me, YMMV. Remember, my unit is not exactly stock anymore, as I stated above. The Mullard GZ33 is actually less expensive than the Mullard GZ34 - I bought two for the price of one GZ34. I am very aware of the larger voltage drop of the GZ33, and was not expecting better sound from it, yet that's exactly what I got.
Mick recommends the GZ37 as an alternate for the 5AR4 in the manual for the Chenin, and it also has 3 amp current draw, so that does not seem to be a problem...