How can I transfer my records to cd? Best quality

I think that the people that find this too much trouble don't actually enjoy their vinyl. Since I listen to vinyl 90% of the time when I'm at home, it's no real bother to turn on the Korg MR1000 to record an album and remembering to jump up to key in a breaks between the songs. If you do that, then the digital playback will jump from cut to cut as desired. Downconverting and producing DVD-A is then all in the digital domain and pretty efficient.

Someone that thinks that a CD is a replacement for vinyl has now idea of the difference between the two formats.

Dave

I thought this unit was a record to hard drive only.
How do you record to a DVD-A to a DVD disc? or what?

You can drive yourself as crazy with this as with any audiophile component or system in terms of looking for the "best" DAC or program, etc. There's lots of good information in the archives.

Here's what I suggest to get you started. Go to http://www.cfbsoftware.com. Download a trial version of LP Ripper and LP Recorder software. With that, your computer, your turntable, an LP, and a cable to connect your turntable to your computer, you can try out burning LPs to disc and see how involved it is. It's pretty simple. The biggest pain is simply the time of babysitting over the system while it records. It does a good job. If you like it, you can then move up to more complex programs or outboard DACs, etc. You may not want to. You may find it a hassle, or you may find the quality is acceptable without any further equipment or programs.

Ozzie, the Korg hooks into the computer via USB and then you can down-convert the files with software that comes with it. From there, you can burn DVD-A using a plug-in to Windows Media.

Like I said before, if you enjoy vinyl and actually listen to it, then it's no trouble to archive. OTOH, if you don't normally listen to your records, then it'd be a royal pain. However, that'd raise the question, "why would you archive anything that you don't like?" The export, downconversion and DVD burning are all in the digital domain, so they're pretty efficient.

When I'm recording, I use headphones to assure the best quality. A good turntable to 5.6MHz file will blow away any CD. It's worth the effort, even if you're just going to convert to Apple lossless for you iPhone (I do that). I really do two things, I archive my D2D and better analog recordings at 5.6MHz and then I downconvert to "lossless" quality for iTunes on my office computer and portable devices.

Ideally, the Korg could see an external hard drive, then it'd be useful as a primary source. With only 40G of storage and such large files, it's not convenient for that, yet. Surely in the next year or two that technology will be available.

A poor quality transfer will sound like crap, so why not do a good job while you're at it? It's no more effort to use the highest quality equipment than to use some POS software. I think the decision should be based on budget and quality concerns. The effort is the same whether you do a great job or end up with something you'll never want to listen to.

Dave

The Edirol UA-5 made by Roland, retails about $225, comes with drivers, it will make about as good of a transfer as a non-professional is likely to make. Then a good parsing application, I use Roxio with Jam, another $100. But make no mistake, your are talking a couple of hours per record. You will also need lots of disk storage space until you get it mastered, then compressed. The only reason any of this would make any sense, is if you have material simply unavailable in CD format. If you go this route, make sure your external speakers are turned all the way off, monitor through your headphones. My biggest surprise in this whole experience. was how much acoustic energy from the speakers will feed back into the record. That said, I have made some petty impressive transfers, it's just a lot of work. Enjoy.