I was referring to the original poster's question - the OPA134 family is excellent, and I can see no reason to sub . . . other than the convienence of what parts one has lying around.
While I don't think the reason of "it's newer!" is in and of itself a valid reason for swapping opamps around, I am also very much NOT a fan of the TL0xx devices - they have an internal resistor in series with the output that can in many applications severely affect phase margin. But it's still a good idea to consider why they were chosen for the original design - and the same reasoning applies to the TL0xx opamps - they're FET-input, and the LM4562 is . . . not. So the current noise for an LM4562 will be MUCH higher than the TL0. A much better choice would be something like an AD845.
Also, with single opamps you generally have to be more careful with subbing - because of those extra pins. In the case of the TL071, it's still internally compensated, and the extra pins are just offset null or something - almost always unused in an audio application. But the PCB designer may still have routed a trace across an NC pin that's not NC on your sub, so you still need to check before you swap.
And something like the 5534 (unlike its dual-opamp brother, the 5532) has external compensation, so you DON'T want to sub around willy-nilly in this case - that and the 5534, despite its age, is still an outstanding opamp.
While I don't think the reason of "it's newer!" is in and of itself a valid reason for swapping opamps around, I am also very much NOT a fan of the TL0xx devices - they have an internal resistor in series with the output that can in many applications severely affect phase margin. But it's still a good idea to consider why they were chosen for the original design - and the same reasoning applies to the TL0xx opamps - they're FET-input, and the LM4562 is . . . not. So the current noise for an LM4562 will be MUCH higher than the TL0. A much better choice would be something like an AD845.
Also, with single opamps you generally have to be more careful with subbing - because of those extra pins. In the case of the TL071, it's still internally compensated, and the extra pins are just offset null or something - almost always unused in an audio application. But the PCB designer may still have routed a trace across an NC pin that's not NC on your sub, so you still need to check before you swap.
And something like the 5534 (unlike its dual-opamp brother, the 5532) has external compensation, so you DON'T want to sub around willy-nilly in this case - that and the 5534, despite its age, is still an outstanding opamp.