Dedicated power

One more thing to keep in mind is something I've picked up on this forum as I too am installing dedicated lines (Thanks again Gs5556). The #/2 or #/3 represents how many hot leads are in the wire. A 12/2 for example in a standard Romex includes an individually jacketed black wire which is the "Hot", an individually jacketed white wire which is the "neutral" and a bare/wrapped in loose - paper-only copper wire which is the ground wire. On a standard outlet receptacle the black goes to the brass screw, the white to the silver looking screw and the bare copper goes to the green painted screw usually located below and to one side. I have taken the advice of several people and am going with a 12/3 arrangement because these contain 2 hot leads (both are jacketed) and because I want to use a jacketed ground wire instead of bare I will label one of these black hots with green tape and use it as a ground wire to connect to that green ground screw on the terminal. In this case the bare copper wire is simply ignored/unused. This facilitates using Isolated Grounding schemes from whichever outlets you want to run an I/G ground system with. As far as I've been told this is supposedly an acceptable practice but the I/G outlets must run their grounding wires to a separate isolated grounding bar and ultimately out to a buried grounding rod. Does this still sound legitimate to you Gs5556? P.S. My distance from breaker box to outlets is less than 30' each and therefore I'm choosing the much easier to work with 12G instead of the 10G... I hope there's no possibility of audible difference at any time? Good lick with your project.

Lissnr, I would suggest you consult an electrician. Isolated grounds are a little more complicated than what you outline above. Perhaps you left some things out for brevity.

With an isolated ground, you typically run the white wire from the silver screw on the receptacle to the neutral bus bar at the panel. You run the black wire from the brass screw on the receptacle to a GFCI breaker at the panel. You code the red wire green and run it from the green screw on the receptacle to the grounding bus bar on the panel. The bare copper wire goes from the grounding screw in the receptacle box to the grounding bus bar on the panel.

An isolated ground receptacle does not need a separate isolated gorunding bar. It uses the grounding bar in the panel. It's just that the isolated ground receptacle does not share a common grounding path back to the ground.

I've been told this is supposedly an acceptable practice but the I/G outlets must run their grounding wires to a separate isolated grounding bar and ultimately out to a buried grounding rod.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>.

Dangerous and in violation of NEC code.

Works great for hunting fish worms though....
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Isolated grounding type receptacles are used mainly in commercial and industrial facilities. Usually they are used for connected loads of sensitive electronic equipment where EMI/RFI noise may be present on electrical metallic conduit, metal wall studs, and such.

99.9% of the time the insulated equipment grounding conductor for an IG receptacle connects to the same ground bar in the electrical panel as the insulated equipment grounding conductors of the non IG receptacles.

In any case the isolated ground, of the IG receptacle, equipment grounding conductor is never connected to an isolated ground rod.

The main sole purpose of the safety equipment ground and the grounding conductor is to carry any ground fault current that may be placed upon it back to the source with the least resistive path as possible.

The earth shall not be considered as an effective ground-fault current path. NEC 250.4 (A)(5)

http://www.aes.org/sections/pnw/pnwrecaps/2005/whitlock/whitlock_pnw05.pdf
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IG recetps do not have to be fed from a GFCI breaker.
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