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Audio Rack Construction

Happy New Year All!

I'm planning a rack with three wood (maple) shelves using threaded rod as the supports. This will be something similar to Salamander racks. Besides, the metal washers and nuts, I'm going to be using some type of isolation washer that will contact the top and bottom of each shelf.
So...shelf, isoloation washer, metal washer, and then nut.

Questions: 1. When passing the threaded rod through each shelf, should the holes in the shelves not allow the threaded rod to touch, so the only thing touching the shelves are the isolation washers? 2. Besides neoprene, what's a good material for the isolation washers? 3. After leveling each shelf during assembly, I'm planning to add aluminum tubing over the threaded rod and nuts between each shelf for a cleaner look. This would mean that the top and bottom ends of the aluminum tubing would also contact the shelves. Should I avoid this, or additionally add some isolation material between the ends of the tubes and the shelves?
kennythekey
magfan
1,583 posts
 
If you are going to fill the space between the tube and allthread, I'd use an expanding foam.
Lead is toxic and a nightmare to work with. The expanding foam has the advantage, from a physics standpoint, of coupling the rod to the tube which increases rigidity. This may actually provide better damping than simply adding mass.
In my stand, I use Teflon washers. A hard, slick material. I also make sure the allthread does not touch the wooden shelves, which are also of a unique composition / construction.
kennythekey OP
593 posts
 
Thanks for the info Magfan.

I'm am debating over the tubes at least for now. I will be expanding my rack pretty soon and I would not want to disassemble/re-assemble. I'm also adding new components and don't know the height yet. This means that the tubes would be a pain right now and I would have to cut new ones if there are any height changes.

By the way, the tubes I received are really nice and inexpensive. We're talking 0.22 and 0.28 cents per inch. For those that are interested here's the link http://www.landmarkflyrodtubes.com/Tubes/aluminum.htm
jdoris
972 posts
 
Hey Kenny. Regards the drill press table size, could you affix a piece of .75" furniture grade plywood? if the table does not have holes that could be exploited for mounting, you might even drill some. I gather no add ons from the manufacturer (eg, some kind of outrigger, or a larger table) are available, or cost too much?
yioryos's avatar
yioryos
723 posts
 
Kenny
I would advice to make a jig.I am not sure how big is your drill press,mine is floor standing and big,but you could make a 3/4 thick plywood base the size of the shelves with one corner blocked by using 1x2 cleats screwed down in square and spaced away enough,that will act as a nest for the shelves to get a consistent and accurate but easy hole location every time.Use a Forsten bit and also the plywood base will protect the underside from wood splitting when the spinning forstner bit exits.
Best of luck
George
kennythekey OP
593 posts
 
Thanks guys.

I got it done and it's perfect...whew!!!

I mean perfect in my mind, you know?

I got lucky. Home Depot had pre-cut acrylic exactly the size of my shelves (24 X 18"). I made a template to fit over the shelves and marked/drilled small holes from the corners. Then drilled the 13/16" holes with my drill press. I simply attached a board to the base of the drill press that supported the shelves just fine. Later, I stacked my shelves and all of the holes lined up perfect. A little anxiety can go a long way!

Anyway, I just got my Walnut Oil, but still have to wait on the feet. I'm having a local machine shop drill and tap my Mapleshade Heavy Feet to 3/4"-10. Still waiting, so more news later.
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