Tube flash


Is it possible for a tube to flash, blow the fuse in the amp, and then test ok on a tube tester? Or is my tube tester broken?

Any insight would be most welcome.
jaffeassc
I'm not a CJ expert (in fact I've never owned one) but as I recall the CJ Premier 12 was originally designed around a 6550 tube, not an EL34. It also has a manual bias system where you turn a pot until a LED turns on. If I'm correct so far read on....

Amps of this type come with a bias arrangement that anticipates the use of certain tubes which would exclude others. For example many, if not most, will bias 6550's at around 50ma. But smaller tubes such as an EL34, E34L or 6l6 and 6l6 GC performs optimally at a much lower number, ranging from 25ma to 35ma (for example the latter for the E34L and the lower numbers for EL34s which would be around 30ma). This is general and amps/tubes will be different considering amps design and the extent that you select the bias and are willing to lower or increase bias to get the best tone, etc.

If your amp has a bias circuit which assumes 6550 type power tubes, as well as KT88s and KT90's, then you would be biasing your EL34's far to hot. This would cause early death, shorting, etc.

I do not know how you could circumvent this unless you could manually bias the tubes using a meter with real numbers or by getting CJ (or a good techie) to alter the bias arrangement so that when properly biased according to the LED your bias will match the requirements of smaller power tubes.

I hope that helps you a bit. I may be way off base.....:-)

PS

BTW when you read Jim McShane' post of AA (posted above by Jea48) be sure to read it in context, not just superficially by looking at the words 'bad' and the yellow highlighting. McShane has always spoken highly of SED EL34's and that has not changed, although he recently indicated he had recieved some negative comments on NEW SED 6550's which suggests a new quality control propblem.
A tube tester won't apply the full B+ voltage testing a tube. Even the top testers won't if the user doesn't know all the operating parameters of your amp.A lot of newer amps drive tubes a lot harder then they used to back in the tube only days. Vintage amps also drive tubes harder now do to the higher line(outlet)voltage than we had years back.That might explain why good NOS tubes may be failing sooner than they should be.If a tube does flash in a amp,I wouldn't want to reuse it even if it wasn't at fault,assuming a part in the amp failed causing the tube to flash.
Thanks Newbee for pointing out about the yellow highlighting of the word "bad".... The yellow highlight is the nature of the beast apparently in the AA program when doing a search.
I entered "Bad EL34 Winged C tubes" so the word bad will be highlighted in all found posts.

http://db.audioasylum.com/cgi/search.mpl?forum=tubes&searchtext=bad+EL34+Winged+C+tubes+

And yes as you pointed out Jim does not say all EL34 Winged C tubes are bad.
Jim
Jea, perhaps I didn't express myself well. I'd NEVER stick a tube like that back into my amp.
As Hifi mentioned: most testers do not apply full operating voltages(B+) to the tube being tested. Tubes, under actual operating conditions, will occasionally either short, draw high screen current or open a connection internally. In the event of a short or high current draw; your circuitry may suffer some consequences. The only way to minimize the odds of that occuring is to burn in the tubes at full voltage and cull the weak ones prior to their use, as is Upscale's practice with their power tubes, ie:(http://www.upscaleaudio.com/rare/tpm.htm).