DIY speaker mod- Newbie Needs Advice.

Sidssp:
I am not replacing the fuse with a resistor. I am removing the fuse and replacing the potentiometer that controls the rear firing tweeter with a resistor.. The factory setting is 12:00 for a neutral setting and the 1 ohm resistor is supppose to match that value when the potentiometer is removed from the circuit. The dirty deed was done yesterday and sounds ok. My techie friend says this resistor will take about 20 hours to burn in. Will report back when burn in is complete. The mfg. is ok with this mod.

I am not replacing the fuse with a resistor. I am removing the fuse and replacing the potentiometer that controls the rear firing tweeter with a resistor.. The factory setting is 12:00 for a neutral setting and the 1 ohm resistor is supppose to match that value when the potentiometer is removed from the circuit. The dirty deed was done yesterday and sounds ok. My techie friend says this resistor will take about 20 hours to burn in.

If that 12:00 setting your referring to is actually at the center of its full rotation, using a resistor that's 1/2 of the the potentiometers full value will most likely give you a more neutral setting. For example, if it's a 8 ohm pot, use a 4 ohm resistor, for a 20 ohm pot, use a 10 ohm resistor. This is the way a lot of speakers are wired.

You said you've done it and it sounds OK. So if it does seem too bright, try the half of the pot value method.

Make sure you use a wirewound, non-inductive resistor. Make sure it has a rating (wattage) as high as the pot itself. For a tweeter, I'm guessing a 10-20 watt wirewound resistor. Don't use a carbon, or a film type, unless a manufacturer says to for some reason.

Burn in complete and initial brightness has gone away. All is sounding good.