The main reason to replace them is doing so may well result in an incidental upgrade/or deliberate one. Typically included in a complete overhaul. Well worth the average cost of around $400.00 for an amp.
Bottom line is don't buy old gear unless you are prepared to replace all coupling caps, wire, lytics, tube sockets and tubes. This is quite common. Jallen
I have a CJ PV-10A circa 1992. The Solens film caps in it while not the greatest caps never showed any noticeable agingissues. However the white "CJ" film caps definitely aged, deadening highs and transients; swapping with new caps gave immediate improvement. So cap type must have some bearing on life span.
I recently put a Technics DD turntable from the late 80's back into service. I replaced EVERY electrolytic AL cap. Many were starting to show corrosion at one electrode.
Please remember you cannot judge the quality of 20 yr + old AL caps by specs of today's products. Back 20-30 years ago they were not as good as today's premium brands (not the cheapo stuff).
I have Tektronix O-scopes and electronic equipment from the 70's which used a lot of solid tantalum electrolytics. I have yet to see one of these fail. They are vastly superior to Al electrolytics from a lifetime perspective.
Although Tantalum caps are considered, "electrolytic"; there is no liquid electrolyte(totally different construction) to dry out, or expand and blow out the vent. Two major reasons for electrolytic failure. Solid polymer(ie: PEDOT) electrolytics are another excellent option, if applicable. Try finding either, in a value usable for a power amp PS filter cap though. I've installed Sanyo OS-CONs in my TACT preamp's PS, with excellent results.
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