What value cap to bypass power supply cap?


Is there a way to calculate the value for a bypass cap to parallel a power supply cap? To bypass a coupling cap or crossover cap, I've heard you should use 10 to 20% of the value cap to be by passed. For example, you should use 0.5 microF cap to bypass a 5 microF cap. However, I've heard you should use a standard 0.1 microF cap to bypass power cap, no matter the value (I have power supply caps up to 760 microF).
dracule1
They're not for preamp or DAC. They're for monoblock amps. However, there are a total of 12 of these. Still not a lot by electrolytic standards, but they are huge cans, each about 7 x 5 inches and weighing around 4 to 5 lbs. According to the design of the amp, huge values found in electrolytics are not needed.

The Mundorfs Supreme, although a metalized film cap, is noninductive by design (noninductive winding geometry). Shouldn't that result in very good frequency response?

Teflons are too expensive. I would need 12 of them for the power supply caps. The amp side would need only one 0.1 microF Teflon cap (I have a couple of V-Caps from another project left over). But the metal foil polypropylene caps may be viable solution for the power supply caps.
I'm not sure why you need to bypass each capacitor. Why not use just one 1uF cap at the PC board entry. M-Cap like that should be most likely around $20.
Dracule1 .. my post was a attempt at painting a picture with broad stokes ... and suggesting the number you were seeking was 1/100th or 1% as Kijanki stated

My post got you in the ball park but seated you in the third deck .. Kijanki's guidance has give you field level box seats 3 rows behind first base

6 years ago I upgraded the PS caps in my D500 Phase Linear .. I bumped the main caps from the factory stock 35k to 140K of Nichicon’s and bypassed with 1% Rels .. I also had a dual diode bridge installed and eliminated the stock factory attenuators by wiring the inputs directly to the outputs eliminate the old carbon pots and about 4 feet of wiring

The difference was far from night and day ... much more like dusk to dawn ... but the improvement was positive with no down sides .. tightening up the base and opening up the treble very nicely

I think the Rel’s helped extend and open up the treble and the Nichicon’s gave some boost to the bass

I have found greater gains in working with room acoustics .. power deliver and vibration control .. but have no complaints about the amp upgrade to this day .. that amp isn’t going anywhere nor are the double run of Ridge Street PIII speaker cables driving my NHT3.3’s

Dracule1 .. I’m sure you’ll agree with me that they should put Kijanki and Almarg’s picture on money for all their contributions and time donated to this forum

ATB Dave
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Thank you Dave for good word but I'm only trying a little to repay all great thing I learn on this forum. Almarg is is the one to be praised for sharing his knowledge and constantly helping people. He is pretty much a guru for all technical things.
Hi Kijanki, I think what you're talking about is putting a single cap at the input as an AC line filter. That is a great place for Mundorf Supreme. People have already tried this out and got good result:

http://www.laventure.net/tourist/caps.htm

However, as you can see in the link, there a caveat with Mundorfs as AC filter...It is note rated for use in AC application.

I have been told by several amp designers that bypassing each power supply cap with a 0.1 microF (or other small value cap) is good design practice to filter out noise in the hundreds of kHz to megaHz range, which I was told can cause unwanted oscillations in the amp.

Thanks for hanging in there to guide me.