Dedicated Power Lines


Been thinking about running dedicated Romex circuits from my circuit breaker box for my rig. No . . . I decline paying for specialty wire, Romex will do. The question is how many discreet lines and the amp capability of each line. I'm still trying to figure out how to do the installation in accordance with Code, without tearing my finished basement apart. For that, I'll consult a licensed electrician.

My rig consists of the following gear: (1) self powered sub that is rated at 1500 "Class D" watts; 4500 watts on a surge; (2) ARC tube CDP; (3) ARC tube line stage; (4) ARC tube power amp rated at 120 wpc - supposedly draws 700-800 watts when driven hard; (5) ARC tube phono pre; and VPI TT. I have a large screen plasma TV and a DVD player. I think that stuff can run off the house circuits.

Right now, everything I just listed is sucking juice off the same line. I gotta believe no good is coming from that set-up. Funny story -- one day my kid was playing Rosetta. I think it's a band that plays music, or at least that what my kid says. Tons of bass. When the band kicked into "low gear," first the basement lights dimmed, then the circuit breaker tripped.

Oh, my house is tied into the utility lines with a 100 amp service. If I change that out, that's the next project. But not right now. Other than Rosetta, no other power delivery problems noted.

Thanks
bifwynne
Bifwynne,

I tried cutting through the NEC material. Have to admit, I got lost.
Bifwynne
LOL.

National Electrical Code 90.1 Purpose:
(A) Practical Safeguarding. The purpose of this Code is the practical safeguarding of persons and property from hazards arising from the use of electricity.

B) Adequacy. This Code contains provisions considered necessary for safety. Compliance therewith and proper maintenance results in an installation that is essentially free from hazard but not necessarily efficient, convenient, or adequate for good service or future expansion of electrical use.

FPN: Hazards often occur because of overloading of wiring systems by methods or usage not in conformity with this Code. This occurs because initial wiring did not provide for increases in the use of electricity. An initial adequate installation and reasonable provisions for system changes provide for increase in the use of electricity.

(C) Intention. This Code is not intended as a design specification or instruction manual for untrained persons.

(D) Relation to Other International Standards. The requirements in this Code address the fundamental principles of protection for safety contained in Section 131 of International Electrotechnical Commission Standard 60364-1, Electrical Installation of Buildings.

FPN: IEC 60364-, Section 131, contains fundamental principles of protection for safety that encompass protection against electric shock, protection against thermal effects, protection against overcurrent, protection against fault currents, and protection against overvoltage. All of these potential hazards are addressed by the requirements in this Code.

Look Closely at Section (B) Adequacy it reads as follows: "Compliance therewith and proper maintenance results in an installation that is essentially free from hazard but not necessarily efficient, convenient, or adequate for good service or future expansion of electric use."
http://www.spgs-ground.com/information/-purpose-of-the-national-electrical-code

FPN:?
Are suggestions only.

Code is bare minimum electrical safety standards. NEC is not meant to be used as an instruction manual.

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What I'm still confused about is whether I should run hot wires from both sides of the box. My concern is whether powering my gear with different phase hots could in some way change the output phase of my gear.
Bifwynne
Either way it will not change the polarity or phase of the output of your gear.

I looked at your equipment. Everything added up, the total connected load can't be more than 10 or 12 amps continuous max. And that would be if you pushed the amp near full power.

Have the electrician feed the dedicated branch circuits from the same line, leg, of the panel.
You do not want a 240V potential, voltage, between the hots of your dedicated branch circuit receptacles where audio equipment will be be connected together by ICs. You want zero potential from hot to hot. And you will have zero if the branch circuits are fed from the same Line, leg of the electrical panel.
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Got it! My thought is that the in-wall house circuits will feed the TV, the DVD player and the VPI TT. Four (4) separate dedicated lines for: (1) the amp; (2) the analogue fronts (linestage and phono pre); (3) the CDP; and (4) the sub-woofer. Will set up a satellite box off the main panel for the 4 lines -- will use only hot from one side of the main panel and will ask the electrician to link the sub-panel as far away from other breakers that feed motors and the HVAC system. Does this sound like a good plan?
This is really interesting reading all the posts and suggestions. 1) show me evidence where connecting electronics on the panel as balanced loads split evenly between phases actually causes ground loops and noise. I would bet money that this is an assumption made by people that have no idea what was actually causing their noise and ground loops. 2) Every qualified electrician will ask an important question before installing the new panel box and wiring the "dedicated" lines. That question will be "what will the specific loads be on each phase? And a qualified electrician that is concerned with not violating basic safety and code will pull out a calculator and split the loads equally. I'm not going to argue with anyone here regarding this issue. it is what it is. When I wrote separate lines, I actually meant "dedicated Lines" specifically lines that have three conductors per line. A hot wire, neutral and ground that are not shared with any other circuit and are dedicated lines all the way back to the panel. That is what I meant. I don't care if you use separate conductors or three conductor "Romex" type conductors. It is up to you and your electrician as long as it meets or exceeds code and serves your purpose. Sharing neutrals will absolutely contribute to ground loops and noise. And yes, you have to be very clear to the electrician in the instructions. Tell the electrician that you want "dedicate" lines with a hot, neutral and ground per dedicated line and to not share ground and neutrals. If your system doesn't draw massive current per phase, then it really won't make a difference if you connect it on one phase. However, if you have stupidly massive equipment that is on all the time and draws continuous current, this may overload one phase and is a basic violation of electrical code. Period! I read posts all the time where some well meaning person suggest to someone to do something to "fix" a problem and that "fix" is a violation of some code or safety standard. Such as the continuous use of "cheater Plug" or some other non-sense. But, they wont' be around when someone gets hurt will they? also, if you wire your panel incorrectly and a fire occurs and your insurance company finds out that it was purposely wired incorrectly, this may void your insurance coverage. I'm just saying... Do it correct the first time.
Minorl, I take your point. The biggest energy vampires in my system are the power amp and the sub woofer. The rest of the gear doesn't draw that much current. Let me be clear. If the line stage and phono pre are fed off a true dedicated line from the box off one hot and the amp and sub are fed off true dedicated lines from the box with the other hot of opposite phase, will that set up result in the line stage/phono pre outputs being out of phase with the power amp and sub?
My recommendation comes from years of testing different electrical setups, wiring techniques, components etc., everything you have read here on audiogon I've tried and countless more. The key question here is what actually works, have you actually done these types of testing in the proper manner. An example, breakers and receptacles the main difference between them that makes the biggest difference in sound is the mechanism that secures the wire, then choosing the type of material, plating, etc. they are made of. The good receptacles always give you the option of material but they never offer different mechanisms for securing the wire. Look at a GE breaker, the wire is squeezed tight along the whole circumference of the wire giving maximum surface contact and no air gap, a solid design (one of many reasons I use stranded wire). The main difference between a commercial panel and a homeowner one are the larger copper bars the breakers are secured on, and how they are secured bolted versus pressure fitted. I don't use plastic receptacle boxes simply because after countless times of pulling the power chord out of the receptacle the screws that secure the receptacle to the plastic box simply give out. There are just too many things to go over and do, both large and small that affect the quality of your electrical set-up. There is no electrician that will do what is required simply because they were never taught this. I've worked with a lot of electricians to know that no 2 are alike, I've worked with one electrician for over 10 years now, so he knows what needs to be done. One last thing to consider, what if the people giving the recommendations are wrong, with my set-up you don't have to rip out the walls to make changes.