DIY Rack


Well, after long searches and racks that just cost too much in my mind, I've decided to go the DIY route.

I've got products sourced for every part of the rack so far except the contact between the floor and the rack. Ideally I want some type of adjustable spike so I can level the rack off on my generally uneven floors. This has been hrder to find than I thought. Any suggestions?

Sorry I can't be more specific about what is I am looking for, its the type of thing that I'll know when I see it.

So any direction the good folks here can lead me will be much appreciated. Oh and any suggestions for DIY materials in general would be fantastic.

Cheers,
peter
mariasplunge
Thanks Dave. I have a very understanding wife that lets me "park" my tools in the garage instead of her car! :-)

An adjustible shelf design would be quite useful as your system changes. As you eluded, the problem will be in making it sturdy enough to support the weight of your components and solid enough that it won't produce vibrations. To make it that sturdy and solid out of wood could be a challenge. I'm certain it could be done though it may not be easy. for adjustability I've seen folks use threaded rods and attach wooden or MDF platforms in between. Adjusting is as simple as moving a bolt.

How many shelves are you looking to have and what materials did you invision using?

Feel free to use any design I've used and I'd be happy to give any advise/assistance though I am by no means an expert.

Brandon
Great looking rack Brandon. But it looks like you did a better job on the young'un.
Yo Brandon!

Thanks for the reply and the advice. I appreciate it very much.

I am leaning towards a triple wide rack that will hold 9 components including a turntable. A 50-inch flat panel TV will be sitting on top. Using the threaded rod would be the easiest but that in itself looks a bit 'unfinished' to me. I can always cover the threaded rod with some tubing.

Yup, a concern with something that big is that it may not be too rigid. I do want the rack to be on casters so that it can be moved around and I do not want it to be flexing very much at all. I am not worried about vibration very much because my equipment is not high-dollar.

I was also thinking of having 2 separate racks. They would be easier to move around when necessary but they would end up taking more wall space. I only have 12 feet to work with.

I am seriously looking at Cocobolo wood. Beautiful grain patterns and a nice color to the wood itself. That wood has a serious drool factor! I have no idea if it can be purchased in thick dimensions that would be required for the legs/uprights. Koa is also at the top of my list. I have seen pictures of a few racks that are using 2-inch thick wood for the shelves. I really did not want to go that thick for the actual shelves.

Dave
Hi Brandon!

Hey, what are the dimensions of the uprights?

What thickness of wood are you using for the shelves?

I have been talking with a local woodworker about making a couple racks for me with a design similar to yours. I was thinking the uprights would be 2 x 2 and the shelf thickness would be 1 1/2. He said that 3/4 inch thick shelves would be plenty. He was also saying that the uprights do not have to be 2 x 2. At this point I cannot remember what dimension he was using for the uprights for the price quotes. Anyway...

Dave
Dave,

I can get the exact diminsions later if you need them but the legs are approx 2x2. the shelf supports are approx 1.5x2 and the shelf itself is approx 7/8". The shelves sit on and are attached to a 1x1 piece of sapele (that is attached to the supports between the legs). Both are attached using screws to minimize vibration. All are solid wood, the only glue-ups used were on the shelves where I had to join two boards to get the width needed. Hope this helps.

Brandon