A not sarcastic question for the power conditioner/upgraded power cord folks


And I realize that there are those that don’t believe in either

Assuming you use a power conditioner and after market power cords, do you feel that the power cord from the power conditioner to the wall might be a limiting or even a negating factor to the performance of the after market power cords that run from the power conditioner to the gear?

The reason I ask is that I was about to embark upon some more experimentation with different power cords and where I plugged them into when I discovered that the aftermarket cords I had purchased before and some recent arrivals are actually a meter shorter than the ones that came with the gear. This doesn’t matter for the amp due to its location, but when I did my last power cord upgrade I ran my CDP and pre into a conditioner so the length for those didn’t matter either, but as I was doing the musical chairs with power cords thing today, I also was intending to run the CDP and pre straight into the wall on separate dedicated circuits, but I found out that I am a tad short on those two.

Which doesn’t preclude me from moving my dedicated circuit outlets up a couple of feet, and I suppose I probably will, but I was curious as to the opinions about the limitations of a power conditioners power cord.

immatthewj

I've often wondered how does one know when to stop with the absorption and diffusion treatments? 

I guess when you run out of money or obtain the Holy Grail--whichever comes first?  

Is he referring to the neutral/ground bar?

All the busbars- neutral, hot and ground. The breakers will snap into the busbar, you want paste between the two, so you just need to paste the breaker contacts.

Likewise if one wants paste in their receptacle you don’t need to squeeze paste under the screws into the clamps, just paste the wire and there will be paste between wire and clamp. If you are going to this extent take some emery cloth and clean the oxidation off the copper wire ends first. 

I know they pasted the aluminum cable that enters the new 200 amp panel I had installed a few years ago, but that would be antioxidant paste one needs to do when connecting aluminum to copper. Here BC Hydro does not use copper cable from the street/pole to new houses anymore, they use aluminum.

I am not sure where to put the junction box? I guess you would have to cut the dry wall out and mount the box to a stud close to the outlet, kind of like in new construction and then patch some new dry wall in?

Yeah, but as long as you have accessible cover on it, and not buried behind drywall. Think of it like a sub-panel mounted inside the stud cavity. Yeah, could be fugly. I think 10 gauge is more than sufficient.

@audphile1 

I'm not trying to sell anyone on whether or not they should use a power conditioner.  Ultimately, every individual audiophile has to find their own way.  It's all good in the neighborhood.  Happy listening.     

I know this has been a long winded and convoluted way to get my expert advice. 

Buy the box of rocks. https://www.ebay.com/itm/265757970590 

My experience 

Amps sound best into the wall

Digital components (DACs and Streamers) benefit from plugging into a Power Conditioner and also from upgraded power cords. So far not the case with my Amp. 

Passive Power conditioners clean up the sound without negatively affecting the imaging, soundstage and high end frequencies as active conditioners do in my experience. 

And to the OPs original question, yes the power cord for the conditioner affects the sound. 
 

I tried a PS Audio Regenerator and a Audioquest Active Conditioner but found the best performance for my system with a Shunyata Gemini 8 passive. Also I preferred the Shunyata Gamma power cable to the more expensive Theta cable.

Even though my digital components ( Aurender and MSB))   have provided excellent power regulation they benefited from the Shunyata Conditioner.