Are there any issues with connecting speaker wire in this manner?

I'm considering purchasing some 14 awg solid core wire to use as speaker cable.  I will be doubling this up to make 11 awg speaker cable. My amplifiers, Red Dragon S-500, have binding posts which DO NOT have a hole drilled in the center of the shaft for inserting wire (they are hollowed out for banana plugs but that's not what I am referring to here nor do I need).  I'll be connecting the speaker wire without attachments, no spades, bananas, nor pins.  To get a good connection, it would be ideal if I could take the wire and, at the half way point, wrap it around the amplifier binding post, then run the two ends out to the speakers.  Will this work or will connecting the wire in this manner be problematic?  Do I need to cut the wire into 2 runs?  Thanks!



"Why on god green earth would anyone run solid conductors for cables that transmit frequencies?"

It’s been know for some time that "skin effect" becomes a non-factor at a given cable diameter. Well-designed "solid core" cables can pass signals greater than 20kHz. In theory, ALL cables are "solid core". Some are just smaller than others. Even most miniscule cables have "solid cores." The differentiator is that "stranded" cables have muliple smaller cables grouped together to form a single larger gauge cable, and "solid core" cables have conductors that are individually insulated, thus not "talking to each other" until the sound arrives at the other end.

We can debate the pros and cons of the sonic attributes of "stranded" vs "solid core" (and, have for decades). The "skin effect" factor of well-designed cables is not one of them.

I've yet to see anyone run the numbers on skin effect on speaker cables and show a significant difference in audio frequencies.

waytoomuchstuff:  thank you for responding to ktarver's post.  I had wanted to but just couldn't get motivated.  As to your 1st response, I've been using speaker cable that is 7 solid core 18awg silver plated copper wires per leg without termination for years.  The Red Dragon S-500's are the first amps I've used without the center pin drilled for bare wire.  The wire is big enough that it fits nicely as if they were banana plugs.  It's not a tight fit, just snug, but that's what I've been doing ever since I received the Red Dragon amps.  I never move speaker cables unless I am forced to move the speakers.  I was one of those fools that spent big bucks (back then) to get the huge Monster Cables banana plugs and, soundwise, they sucked!  That's when I discovered less can be more in audio.  Thanks!


So I see that I have at least got some of you to start thinking and respond.   So for you naysayers, I understand why you don’t understand skin effects of conductors but it’s a matter of physics and electron flow on the outside surfaces of the conductor.  As frequencies increase, current flow increases on the outside (skin) of a conductor.  Much better to have multiple conductors (i.e. stranded wire) to increase the overall surface area as the inner areas of the conductor carries very little of the current flow.  Im an EE that has had to deal with this my entire career.  From a purely practical perspective, a large enough single conductor (solid wire) has enough surface area to not restrict flow much.  It’s all a matter of resistance to how much current is being conducted.  

@Icherepkai, I applaud your experimental efforts. I use solid core for just about everything simply because I find it superior to stranded. I have Harmonic Technology Pro 9 speaker cables which use different sized solid cores and these are my reference.

Your suggestion to wrap and twist 14AWG is fine at amp side but a little more difficult at the speaker end. Let me suggest finding a rod the same size as the binding post diameter (I select-from my set of drill bits) tightly twisting the 2 wires about 50mm from the end using 2 pairs of pliers to do this then splaying them apart and forming them tightly around the bit and twisting again with pliers which now resembles a lug but without any soldering or additional random pieces of metal. I place a copper washer over the post and tighten against that to prevent deforming the ’lug’ For Cu. washers I visit auto suppliers for a close fitting annealed soft Cu. washer. These are used on diesel injectors and are pure Cu. The Cu. washers from hardware stores are mass produced by stamping and are manufactured from dubious quality metal and partially hardened during the stamping process. Once firmly tightened the excess wire on the final twist can be neatly trimmed leaving about 10mm to maintain integrity. Hope I’ve explained that clearly. Some advocate soldering the lug so formed but I strongly disagree because you are essentially creating a failed solder joint whilst introducing unnecessary and unwelcome extra metals into the connection.

Pliers: I superglue pieces of leather in the jaws to protect the wire when twisting.

On my speakers and amps I take it further by bringing the wires from the XO or amp modules outside the box or chassis to a pure Cu. lug and place the speaker wire in an identical lug, mating them back to back and tightening securely. This IMO is the closest second best to an inconvenient direct connection. Sure, this will void any guarantee but my speakers and amps are DIY

One more point, you mentioned running 7 solid core wires together. If they are not individually insulated then you are back to a stranded cable.

Regards listening blind or sighted I approach this another way which IMO provides a better grasp of any difference. Simply listen for at least a week before swapping, so allowing you to relax with the music and determine which entertains the most whilst fatiguing the least.

Very keen to hear results of the unusual metals as speaker cables. A higher DCR (lower IACS) is not an issue.