Audioquest or Kimber kable.

If you can hear or see no differences you might have more problems than you are aware. 🙉 🙈

I reread this post, it sounds like I’m a fanboy, but I’m really not.  I do enjoy my investment over the years in Kimber Kable.  Quality Customer Service is important.
I have become attached to my Kimber interconnects and speaker cables in my ‘mid-fi’ rig.  They are a great company to work with.  Called them up and ordered custom speaker cable lengths for my 11.2 system.  I’m running 8VS front L/C/R, 4VS & PR for others,  Of course each pair of cables is equal length, I’m old fashioned.  I have in wall wiring for rear speakers.  I also have Hero interconnects, and the Kimber copper phono cable for my TTs and some Timbre interconnects for the old vintage equipment.  Almost all of this was ordered directly by telephone to Kimber and purchased directly from them.  Having custom length speaker cables and interconnects are great until you have move.  The thing about the move was that I needed an extension to my TT cables.  They made up an extension for me from the same spec cable used in their TT cables, with female RCAs on one end and male RCAs on the other, enabling me to continue to use my C2 preamp without any issues.  I can’t detect any tonal character change in the sound of the TT, which is a result.  The company is great to work with even if you only buy a pair of their lowest priced interconnects first as I did.  Or asking for short jumpers made to measure.  Since I have been using Kimber as my cable supplier for years now, I admit I have some cable in a drawer as a result of my last move, but this is offset by the consistency product to product.  Good cables are worth the price for sure.  I can’t afford the high priced stuff, but the low and mid quality is outstanding value for the money.  
     BTW, my system is a mix of Yamaha vintage (C2, T2 & M4) and New school Yamaha RX-A3060 AVR, Kef LS50 (7; L/C/R, FPR L/R, Surround L/R), Kef 102Ref rear surround L/R, and M&K Dipoles RPR L/R.  Sources;  AR The Turntable and Braun P600 TT, Sony TC765 RtR, NAK RX505, Oppo 203, Tascam D-3000.  All recordings I make are stereo through Hero to the Analog 2 channel setup vintage pre.  The output is through the AVR to the M4 driving the L/R LS50s and the pair of vintage Def Tech Subwoofers (no processing).

It all sounds excellent to me, coherent, consistent, capable and versatile.  I have some Audio Quest cables and they are good,  but the customer support and value from Ray Kimber's company has been excellent.  No extra BS, just quality cables, delivered as promised on time.

Kimber 8PR does everything I need it to.  Neutral and balanced.  Big bass sounds like big bass.  Clear midrange sounds like clear midrange.  Delicate airy highs sound like delicate airy highs.  No negatives.  

Sorry for the delayed response. Thank yall so much for your advice. I really think I am leaning towards kimber now. I added some new equipment to my system now i can finally go balanced so I will be looking at kimbers XLR cables along with their speaker cables. While I am at it I might just make the jump and get power cables , XLR and speaker cables all together.  

The most important thing to remember is the is an appropriate cable gauge size for power. silver is far more efficient than copper by its self. some electrical standards for regular copper stranded 10 amps at 120 volts is or 1200 watts or typical 18 guage wire load max; 15 amps at 120 volts is 1800 watts or a 14 guage wire load; 12 guage is 20 amp or 2400 watts or 10 guage is 30 amp or 3600 watts. Essentially 10 guage wire could drive a 3600 watt speaker before needing to ever worry about over load. bigger is not always better. why well some basic math the square root of watts multiplied by the square roots of ohms tells you the accurate average sustained volts any amplifier outputs to speakers. so for example 200 watts at 8 ohms 40 average volts to your speakers, 200 watt 6 ohm about 35 volt, 200 at 4 is 28 not quite 29 volts. voltage rate and current amplifier rates can very based on max volume peaking volts but not standard volume operations. another tip of ohms law and psychics more volts equals lower current, more current is lower volts. keep in mind amplifier damping factors are diminished by having over sized cables or conduits, and your signal and detail especially at lower volumes will be lost or absorbed by a huge cable, especially if one is just running 100, 200, 3 or maybe even 400 watts per channel. Silver is twice as efficient as coppers conductivity very important, less is more so with the Baldur speaker cables being 12, 26 guage conductors each leg or lead, is 16 guage of silver. 24 conductors total per cable. 16 guage silver is at least 2000 watts potential of speaker driving before worry, remember 14 guage copper is only 1800 watts. you also impair perspective proper timbre of the sound harboring more bass or low frequency via too large of cables. I use Nordost speaker cables for this reason, no exception. This is why audioquest and some other cable maker have to put those battery warmer packs on their huge cables because the massive inductance and resistance and capacitance.