Biamp question

And I’m pretty sure I am the most confused person in the room right now. 

I looked up your loudspeakers, they are designed to be bi-amped. Just take the strap off of the speaker terminals. They will work with or without a crossover but the proper way is with. 

oldhvy is correct in the bi-amp method, but an active crossover like russ69 mentioned is the better way to do it. You can limit the bass going to the mid/high frequency amplifier, reducing power and intermodulation distortion. This will make both the low and mid/highs much cleaner. An active crossover will also give that much greater ability for you to match the levels of each band. So many crossover choices, from DBX223, TDM24CX-2, many Ashley’s up to the Marchand, Bryston and First-watt at the top, in my opinion. You also have the choice of digital, Behringer and so many other DSP’s. We are all here to help, good luck!

Thank you all! I believe I can manage the active crossover (possibly) but my chief concern is disabling the crossover in my speakers. 

You can bypass the crossover in the speakers or you can leave it the way it is. The danger of disconnecting the internal crossover and running just copper wire between the low end and mid/high frequency drivers is the risk of damage to the midrange driver (the 7" in your case), should a power amp or the active crossover fail. You cannot bypass the upper midrange and tweeter drivers because that would mean you will need to tri or quad amp. I'm tri-amping with 3 stereo amps and a 3-way crossover, I also have 3 subs. The sound improvement with running just copper wire between the drivers and amplifier outputs, for me, is worth the risk of damage to any or all drivers. I recently lucked out during a very rare, (first time in 43 years) when the active crossover in one channel failed sending 500 watts into one woofer and 300 watts into one midrange for about 5 seconds. The tone was relatively high, about 900Hz., but any longer the drivers would have been damaged. Luckly, the tone was below the crossover frequency of the tweeter, so a clipped 200-watts rms signal was not seen by the tweeter! My suggestion is to take small steps. Leave the crossover in the speakers as is and as you get more educated and confident, you can try bypassing the internal passive crossovers one at a time. Enjoy!

I'd be careful with and active crossover that doesn't fail safe. A Behringer DCX2496 will fail to work but not send the wrong signal to the wrong place. I only use an active XO in my Bass management system. I find there is a lot better protection with a passive XO for mids and high. 300 hz and below I'm direct coupled too. No passive crossover. I don't recommend it, out of the gate though.. Hook up your amps and be happy. Quit making it complicated.. You want to mess around later, you always can.

Regards