Biamping B&W Nautilus 803's


Hi

I need opinions whether if I should Biamp my B&W N803's.
I presently have a Jeff Rowland Model 2 with BPS. I am awaiting shipment of the the Jeff Rowland Concentra I Int. Amp tommarrow. I was thinking of powering the mids/highs with the model 2, and using the concentra's amp section to power the N803's bass section. Is this overkill ? Should I just sell off the model 2 ? Opinions are greatly appreciated...
128x128hchg888
While I cannot argue the benefits of defeating the internal crossover and replacing it with an active crossover, I can say that bi-amping using the internal x-overs will work and provides noticeable improvement. Provided, of course, there are two sets of binding posts on each speaker. If this is the case, when disconnecting the "shorting bars", the lower connectors feed through a low pass filter and the upper connectors feed through a hi pass filter. I do this with Dunlavy Cantatas and two Aloia power amps.

I have never tried an external active crossover so I can't state that one is better over the other. One might assume that an outboard, dedicated, more expensive crossover may be better but you can try it using the speaker's filters alone first. Experiment then with the active crossover.

For me, immediate sound stage improvements, more detail resolution in the mid-hi's and more control on the woofer.
I would give it a try with passive bi-amping and see how it sounds. The benefits with a passive bi-amp include: increased power, improved damping and keeping the back EMF from the woofers with intermodulating with the upper frequencies. Plus, if you decide it isn't worth it after listening, you can go ahead with the sale...

If you like the sound you can employ an active crossover as well, either with your passive crossovers in place, or for the best effect, by removing them.

Greg
http://www.bwspeakers.com/service/getthemost/ has a section on bi-amping and http://www.bwspeakers.com/service/faq discusses changing the internal crossovers (i.e. disabling them) as well as introducing active crossovers. Note that they almost dictate that you should bi-wire even though they provide jumpers but warn of difficulties beyond that.

But I have N803s too. And wouldn't it be nice to bi-amp ? I was thinking of using 4 of the channels of my 5 channel amp (Pass Labs X5) for a passive bi-amp of the N803s and the last one for my HTM2 center, bi-wired. Then a separate, cheaper, stereo amp to run the Signature 7NT surrounds. Trouble is that I've got balanced connections and I haven't seen Y's in this config, other than cheap microphone type wires. Anyone have any thoughts ?
Andrew
I've seen them but they're rare. Quest for Sound has them on this site, I imagine there are others..

http://www.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/sh.pl?0&1&adlr&Questforsound&home&

Greg
Hi there! Bi-wiring and Bi-amping is one of those items that everyone swears over, either in favor or against. Physically, if you bi-wire (two wires from same amp connection), then you cannot create any difference, because the response required from the amp is the same as with one set of wires. Bi-amping is supposed to allow separate transients to flow to the separate amped parts of your speakers. I don't care what anyone says about B&W's use of less wattage. If you want to hear your speakers sing, give them (almost) as much wattage as you can. For that reason alone, unless your amp is pushing 400 watts per channel, bi-amping (not bi-wiring) should really help. This is just my opinion, of course, but I've been listening and using B&W speakers for the past 20+ years, and there is nothing like them in the world - if they have enough power!! If you need to talk more, contact me at gkbatc@aol.com.