I don't believe in re-tipping. When my Denons get too worn I can trade them in for new replacements. And they can certainly go beyond 300 hours by use of Stylast.
Cartridge upgrade for vintage TT - MM or MC?
I have a Technics SL-D202 that currently has a Sumiko Pearl on it, which is OK but I don't totally love it. The midrange is nice but the treble in particular is lacking. Compared to my digital source it sounds dull and lifeless and therefore I hardly use it.
My question is, would it be at all worth it to upgrade the cartridge or should I just wait until I can upgrade the TT totally? I am considering the Schiit Sol in the future if they ever get it back on the market but my wife really likes the automatic function of our current table so I may be stuck with it or something similar at least for now.
I had considered trying a lower-end MC cartridge and seeing how that sounds but any other recommendations would be appreciated.
I use a Schiit Mani pre which can be adjusted for any cart (or so I'm told).
The table came stock with a AT-71E and I also tried a Shure MX97e but neither of those really wow'ed me.
My question is, would it be at all worth it to upgrade the cartridge or should I just wait until I can upgrade the TT totally? I am considering the Schiit Sol in the future if they ever get it back on the market but my wife really likes the automatic function of our current table so I may be stuck with it or something similar at least for now.
I had considered trying a lower-end MC cartridge and seeing how that sounds but any other recommendations would be appreciated.
I use a Schiit Mani pre which can be adjusted for any cart (or so I'm told).
The table came stock with a AT-71E and I also tried a Shure MX97e but neither of those really wow'ed me.
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I have no idea how a conical tip with 2g tracking force can last more than 300-400 hrs not being worn out, elliptical can be used a bit longer, but they are all inferior compared to a proper profiles like Shibata, LineContact, MicroRidge ... that comes with MM and MI cartridges (some of them also have much better cantilevers). I have never experienced roll-off with MM or MI from Stanton or AT top models, but i pretty much experienced a roll-off with SPU cartridges (just like oldchool Denon). MM is a choice of industry professionals, let me remind about this article again. Since they are vintage cartridges (from the 70s/80s) we can’t find much info about them, except for an old press like TAS etc. Denon require not a Mid Mass arm, but a Superheavy mass arm like FR-64s (over 30g). So you need an iron headshell and a brick instead of the regular counterweight on your Pioneer turntable. In fact i have Grado Signature XTZ (MI) right now on my Denon DA-401 tonearm and this particular Grado was the best from the founder of the company. And yes, the price was $750 in the 80’s. I like this cartridge, but it can’t surpass some of the very best MM from AT, Victor or Stanton. |
@elangley01, You can learn a lot from guys here on agon like, millercarbon, chakster and rauliruegas. They have posted so much helpful information, tips, product data, etc, that it may help if you google your question and do your research there first, you will be surprised with how good and straight forward the many responses you will get from those same fellows. Sometimes it gets a little tedious for them and us to write the same thing over and over. For example here are a few simple turntable upgrades I learned from rauliruegas: @bstatmeister, As far as playing ’albums’ I believe the best upgrade I made from a pure sound standpoint was adding a Parks Audio Budgie Tube Phono preamplifier at $399 with a pair of NOS Telefunken E88CC/6922’s at $454 after selling my $1748 Pro-Ject Phono Box RS MM/MC and the companion Pro-Ject battery powered Power Box RS power supply that I fortunately sold for a little above cost.And since you mentioned your Schiit Mani phono preamp, I’ve since upgraded my phone interconnect cable with shielded and unshielded Duelund 20GA wire with KLEI™Absolute Harmony Plugs, speaker wire with Duelund 12GA and phono mat with GEM Dandy rubber cork compound mat. I’m a Technics direct drive turntable guy too and I’m waiting for them to get rid of the internal phono preamp in the new Technics SL-1500C turntable and put those resources somewhere else on that deck. The digging for the right information and applying it is the fun stuff. It just takes some time to digest all this ’stuff’. |
So here’s something interesting. In my search for new TTs in the same price range I came across some good reviews of the Fluance reference series. You have to calculate your tonearm/cartridge resonance frequency with actual Test Record, buy Hi-Fi Test LP for it. It is also depends on suspension condition if the cartridge is not new. You must know a cartridge dynamic compliance measured at 10Hz (not at 100Hz). If you see 100Hz in the manual simply convert it to 10Hz by multiplying on 1.7 More about tonearm/cartridge resonance here. The "WOW" factor of the cartridge in your system pretty much depends on Stylus Profile and Cantilever Material. If you want extended frequency response, less record wear, long stylus life span and overall better quality you need something line MicroLine and Beryllium cantilever (not available for any new AT model), this is exactly what you can have with Audio-Technica AT-ML150 OCC for very reasonable price. For example the AT-ML170 is absolutely mind blowing cartridge and AT-ML180 is simply amazing but very expensive and impossible to find. There are many reasons why the AT-ML150 OCC is better than AT VM540ML, but one of the main reasons is Beryllium cantilever, Ceramic Base and OCC coild wire and OCC terminal pins. Actually the AT-ML150 OCC was in production and in stock in the shops until the 90’s, even after production of Beryllium was restricted by ecologists. I think the AT-ML150 OCC can be found for $350-450 depends on condition, i bought at least 3 of them over the years, then upgraded to 170 and 180. |
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