Cary Audio CAD-280SA V12R

 As I recall. 35ma and 210ma per channel was about right, sounded good too.

So is there a place to check for the 35ma (per valve?) or at the pin # whatever. I can see how to get the 210 per rail, but kinda lost me with the 35ma, Just a reference to check but not adjust? Wish they had a good manual. 

Output Tubes:
Don’t be so quick to yank/replace/chuck those Ruby’s for others, some were the actual Shuguang EL34-BSTR tube version which sounded really good in that amp.

I'm to much of a miser (sp) to yank and dump..When it comes to valve, I've found some real gems, others just would not try. I will.. Gotta listen.

I read the same thing. With a coupling cap upgrade, the stock tubes sound really good.  I'll give them a LONG listen before I do anything.
I need to let everything settled in first, little at a time..Set the bios get the amp on a dampened, surface, cable or two..PC. Guy brought me a PC with Mcintosh written on it. # 8 or 10 wire. Never seen a Mac cord like that..Big and Green. The Hulk.. Yea those Mullard are probably worth more than the amp. EL34 guys are EL34 guys no doubt, I never have been. If it sounds better then things may change.. Even old guys like change every now and then...LOL

Hay if you could explain the 35ma per tube? How to get it. Fronts or rear I got. 4 8 or 12 valves, I got, from 285-300 down to 210-240ma, I got, but the 35ma per tube, I DON'T GOT.. LOL

Thanks for you patience...

It's just 210 div by 6, per "rail" as you noted.  If you are handy, pull lower cover, look and see if it has those four of the thin silver'ish Audio 1 coupling caps. 

It's just 210 div by 6, per "rail" as you noted.  If you are handy, pull lower cover, look and see if it has those four of the thin silver'ish Audio 1 coupling caps.

I  guess I'm thick, so if I have two valves per rail then bios at 70ma 
and 4 at 140? Am I following you? 
I'll pull the cover. Handy? LOL You mean an I Arnold with 20" arm? hee hee that is a heavy amp, mercy.

Regards

Nope, just 210ma per side, total.  If you get the fancy Cary meter to plug in, you'll likely check bias more, or a simple headphone 1/4" TRS type jack plug with wires and voltmeter.  Let amp warm up good, keep volume down or preamp off, set bias screw at 210-220ma per side (total), you can watch the LEDs (and start backing off) of course to get it close but watch the meter. One 1/4" old style headphone jack per side.  Nothing else to share or over-think there.  Or, just do as manual says, light up LEDS and back off, and then use the meter to fine tune side/channel down at tad till you get to 210-220ma per side.  Message me if you get stuck, will explain over the phone.  

Fancy one from Cary for $100:

Pic https://caryaudio.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/MA-300_front.png
Page, accessories
https://www.caryaudio.com/vacuum-tubes-and-accessories/

or, 1/4" headphone jack with loose wires to voltmeter.  




 

Its 35 ma per tube . 2 tubes per side = 70 ma. 4 tubes per side =140ma . 6 tubes per side = 210 ma . The manual is wrong , if you go to 275 ma with 6 tubes per side you will pop the fuse . I got a cheap analog milli amp meter on ebay and added the plug , it was like $30 . Only use 2 , 4 or 6 tubes in each channel . I tried a bunch of tubes but the electo harmonix sounded better than the rest ( disclaimer ...in my system ) . If you used matched tubes the leds will be a little closer when they light up and shut off but its not worth the cost for matched sets . Just buy regular sets and put them in = close enough . Its a mf badass amp .