Class "A" sound, as related to Stereophile.



It's all about the sound.

It's all about sound, not how much it cost; when I got into "high end", I knew right off the bat I couldn't afford it, but I had to find one thing for sure; how do the various components sound in regard to Stereophile's classes, or ratings? In order to know this; I had to acquire the ability to identify "Stereophile's" class "A" class "B" and class "C" sounds, and the only way to do that was: first, subscribe to Stereophile, and next was to go to every high end audio salon within driving distance; there were 5 well stocked "high end" salons within driving distance. (Since I didn't take my wife, that created some problems)

After a few years of subscribing to Stereophile, plus auditioning equipment that Stereophile recommended, I knew the sound of those recommendations, and I absolutely concurred with them; "If you want to hear the music, you got to pay the piper". While that's true, it's possible to get class "A" sound with class "B" bucks or less.

At this moment, I am looking at 8 capacitors that cost $25 dollars each, plus 2 mono blocks with an instant resale value of 6K. Once I take the covers off and go in with my soldering iron, these mono blocks are worth a resell of O; my mission must be a success. After a successful mission, the resell is still 0; but those mono blocks will deliver class "A" or "A"+ sound, and that's some sweet music.

I have to visualize and hear music in my head before I can modify a component to deliver class "A" sound; but that's the only way for me to get what has become a necessity.

The pressure someone is under when they modify, is great, but the rewards are glorious. On these mono blocks, they are too small for the huge capacitors, therefore I have to figure a way to make the case larger. My reward is "sound" with absolutely no relation to money. I often wander if someone with a fat bankroll can identify the sound, or only how much they paid for each piece.


Happy listening.

orpheus10

Sometime before getting into the high end, I visited a friend who had a rig with an equalizer. I didn't even know what an equalizer was or did at that time; but I knew it sure looked impressive. This thing had 20 slider switches, and lights blinking for left and right channels; it looked so impressive that I wanted one for that reason alone. "Look at my new equalizer"!.

"What does it do"? Just look at it; with all those multicolored lights blinking, isn't that enough?

With an EQ you could shape the music however it suited you; this gave you the power of being the band leader.

My "Phase Linear 4000" had turnover tone controls, dynamic range expander, plus noise reduction; it was really hot stuff (junk under the hood) Now of course I have a pre without any tone controls because I want to hear the music on the record, not recreate it; which gets us to my present speakers.

Most people have had at least a half dozen or more pairs of speakers since I finally perfected the ones I got; that's why I want some "different" speakers. But after carefully listening to my "none" speakers, I thought about the equalizer, and the "turnover" tone controls; that brought me back to where I first got into the high end with no tone controls.

The purpose of this thing is to hear the "artist's music", not mine; and the speakers I have perform that function like no others I've heard.

What I need, is friends with equalizers, and turnover tone controls so I can come back to my rig, and say "Home sweet home".


Enjoy the music.

I've got all the necessary materials for the panels, now it's time to go to work. Will give everyone a holler when I'm finished.
Hi o,

Testing SPL in your room at different frequencies will give you an idea of where in the frequency spectrum your room is accentuating sound pressure levels (SPL) and where it is attenuating them, so that you can:

1) know which frequencies to target for attenuation
2) see the effects of placing absorption panels at different locations.

As much as it pains me to link this site, this is a good tutorial on measuring your room:

 http://realtraps.com/art_spl.htm

All you need is media that generates different known frequencies through your speakers, a radio shack analog (one with a needle meter) sound pressure meter, and a lot of time. 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/REALISTIC-SOUND-LEVEL-METER-33-2050-RADIO-SHACK-/201727489735?hash=item2ef7e...

The Stereophile Test CD is a good one, but only available through them, so may take too long to procure.  I found this download if you are computer savvy and have a way for your pc to play through your system:

http://decibelcar.com/apps/199-download-test-tones-a-frequency-sweeps-mp3-cd-format.html

Once you develop a plot like in the link for each speaker, then you will know where to begin experimenting with your absorption panels and have a way to measure the results vs pure trial and error.

Best to you o,
Dave
Passive analog eq’s will destroy the phase coherence of your sound because of the way they work. I actually use one in my vintage R&R system to great advantage where imaging, soundstaging, phase and time coherence, and accurate tonal reproduction are of very little to no concern, but funking (yes that is an "n") up the sound to provide the overly-ripe bass, depressed mids, and tizzy treble of the era are the order of the day.

As someone (randy?) already pointed out, smart digital eq’s that accurately measure and adjust hundreds of frequency parameters using computer algorithms may be the order of the day for mid-to-low bass correction without the phase shift IF you only use digital sources. A good friend of mine with a $250k+ system uses this capability of his JL Fathom subs and swears by it. No turntable.

Still need to measure the room for 1k and up frequencies to identify and treat hot spots with absorption and then perhaps diffusion to improve imaging and soundstaging.

Dave

If ever there was a store I missed, it was Radio Shack. I loved those stores, and I can thank them for so many completed projects. Any time I was in a mall, I had to drop in Radio Shack and browse.

After some experimenting with the absorption that I already have, I discovered I may not need too much diffusion. Since all the problems seem to be on one side of the room, they should be easy to correct.

Thanks for all the helpful information; it's going to take a few days before completion of projects. I'll post notes on progress.


Enjoy the music.