Class D has a way to go before it can compare favorably with a good class A or A/B amp. I dumped Class D monoblocks with Class A inputs because they still didn't come close. In my opinion.
Class D = Trash?
So, I'm on my second class D amp. The first one, a Teac AI-301DA which claimed to use an ICE module, was unlistenable trash. I burned it in for a few weeks, it just couldn't perform, so I sent it back. Following that, I tried the new Emotiva A-300 (class A/B). It was significantly better, but lacking in too many ways for my tastes. So I changed gears, got an 845 SET from China -- and it was an immediate and massive improvement.
So, before I went further down the SET road, I wanted to try a better class D product using a modern class D module. I settled on the D-Sonic M3-800S with the Pascal module and custom input stage. I read from reviews that these things like to have big cables, so I picked up an eBay 8 gauge power cable (Maze Audio, el-cheapo Oyaide copy plugs, braided 4-wire cable) to go along with it.
Mid-range GONE.
Soundstage depth CRUSHED.
Euphonics DISAPPEARED.
Yes, resolution went up. Driver control went up, allowing me to play compressed rock/pop and orchestra with the speakers being able to render it all. But enjoyment in the sound is basically gone. Using my best power cable (LessLoss Original) improved performance, but didn't fundamentally change the amp's nature. I ran back to my headphones (Focal Utopias) to detox my ear canals.
So, how long does a class D need to burn-in? I want to give it a fair shake before writing the technology off forever.
So, before I went further down the SET road, I wanted to try a better class D product using a modern class D module. I settled on the D-Sonic M3-800S with the Pascal module and custom input stage. I read from reviews that these things like to have big cables, so I picked up an eBay 8 gauge power cable (Maze Audio, el-cheapo Oyaide copy plugs, braided 4-wire cable) to go along with it.
Mid-range GONE.
Soundstage depth CRUSHED.
Euphonics DISAPPEARED.
Yes, resolution went up. Driver control went up, allowing me to play compressed rock/pop and orchestra with the speakers being able to render it all. But enjoyment in the sound is basically gone. Using my best power cable (LessLoss Original) improved performance, but didn't fundamentally change the amp's nature. I ran back to my headphones (Focal Utopias) to detox my ear canals.
So, how long does a class D need to burn-in? I want to give it a fair shake before writing the technology off forever.
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- 236 posts total
I dumped several Cass A and A/B amps because they weren't to my liking. I guess they, as a whole group of amps, are not ready for primetime 😁 I also did not like a couple of tube amps in my audio life. I guess tube amps are ready for the trash. Yes this comment is silly, but exactly what I read often times about Class D in posts. Many, many varieties of Class D amps to pick from. Seems a little overreaching to say they are all not yet ready for primetime. |
I have 3 set of speakers. Chane 1.4s, garbage. Zu Omen Mk.II -- good dyanmics, okay-ish resolution, forward but shallow soundstage. My current reference is the Fritz Carbon 7 SE: http://www.fritzspeakers.com/DreamWeaverFritzCarbon7SESpecPage.asp These speakers have a very benign impedance and phase curve; I got them specifically to be a good match with the 845. I don't know if there are speakers that are easier to drive. Resolution is improved, I'd call it mid-fi if compared to my headphone rig. On the 845 (the cheapest 845 SET I could find from China) soundstage is extends a few feet beyond the edge of the Carbon, and has a satisfying amount of depth. But here's the thing: I don't WANT to be tied to some giant space-heater monstrosity that -- if I upgrade to a "real" 845 -- is going to weight 80-120 lbs. Good 845 implementations need elephantine transformers. 1000 volts, JESUS. I want to move forward and live in the present. But not at the expense of the sound. |
- 236 posts total