DC Offset Blocker/Killer - where to buy in the USA


   I have McIntosh MC8207, the first unit I bought from an authorized dealer came with a loud buzzing coming from the left transformer, and was replaced with a new unit which came with even a louder buzzing. The buzzing can be heard from 8 feet away. Then I was told to have install new 20 amp outlet that has its own isolated grounding.
   That was done professionally by an electrician who installed two isolated 20 amp outlets, two 20 amp circuit breakers, two copper polls for grounding for each outlet, each outlet has its own neutral and power line. After all this done the buzzing sound was still there.
   I was then told to buy a power conditioner which I did (Audio Quest Niagara) which was like $4000 and that did not help. Called back McIntosh and was told that I might have DC offset in my AC line and was told by McIntosh that I would need a DC Offset Blocker/Killer to which when I asked them where to buy one they told me to go on the internet and search to find one, to which I cannot find one.
  This bothers me a little bit, if you as a company think that I have dc in my ac and i need a dc blocker wouldn't you need to sell one as well. I brought this amp to my friends house and it was the same no improvement, so my guess is that he has dc in the ac line as well.
   So If anyone of you knows where to buy a DC Offset Blocker/killer please let me know, but even if this helps kill the buzzing wouldn't you guys think that this expensive somewhat hifi amp/brand should be silent from the factory. I mean this is two units in a row all purchased brand new.

My house is 5 years old, everything is brand new, the whole neighborhood is about 8-9 years old, my electrician says that I have perfect power coming to the house and everything looks fine.

Thank You

tomiiv30
tomiiv30 OP32 posts01-21-2019 2:05pm

It is one rod that he installed in the ground that is few feet away from the outside meter/box, the other rod was installed form the electrical company, it was already there, that’s why I thought he did 2.

One of the 20 amp outlet is grounded to the inside of the panel.

The other 20 amp outlet is grounded directly from the outlet to the outside rod with a clamp that is attached to the rod itself, I saw that with my own eyes. It is a straight wire that goes from the outlet to the outside and has nothing to do with the inside panel or anything else in the house.


The other 20 amp outlet is grounded directly from the outlet to the outside rod with a clamp that is attached to the rod itself, I saw that with my own eyes. It is a straight wire that goes from the outlet to the outside and has nothing to do with the inside panel or anything else in the house.

YOU are going to have to find out exactly what the guy did!

Do you feel comfortable pulling the wall duplex outlet from the wall box for a look to see exactly what the guy did?

IF yes.
Turn off the breaker at the electrical panel that feeds the outlet. Plug a lamp into the outlet to make sure 100% the power is off. 100%! To verify the lamp is turned on and the bulb is good plug it into a live outlet. Lamp bulb should light.

Pull off the outlet cover plate.
Remove the two 6/32 screws that hold the outlet to the wall box.
Pull the receptacle outlet straight out from the box far enough to look at the wires that are connected to the receptacle as well as those that enter the box.
Is the box metal or plastic?
As for the branch circuit wiring that enters the box, I believe you said in an earlier post it is Romex. You should see a black insulated wire (Hot), a white insulated wire (Neutral), and a bare copper wire, the safety equipment grounding conductor.WHERE IS THE BARE WIRE CONNECTED TO???


*****Examples:

1) ** IS THE BARE WIRE connected to the ground wire that comes in from the outside isolated ground rod along with a short wire, pigtail, that connects to the green equipment ground screw on the isolated grounding type receptacle outlet? IF the box is metal the box must also be bonded, connected, to the ground wires connection with another pigtail. All connections should be under one wire connector, example a wire nut. IF this is what you have then the guy wired the grounding per NEC Code as an Auxiliary Grounding Electrode. Lightning loves Auxiliary Grounding Electrodes!

NOT NEC compliant!
2) ** IF a metal wall box was used the Romex cable bare copper safety equipment grounding conductor is bonded, connected, to the metal box ONLY. Period.... IF the box is plastic the Romex Cable bare equipment ground wire is not connected to anything. It is just pushed back inside the box.
The ground wire that enters the wall box from the outside isolated ground rod connects to the green color ground screw on the isolated grounding type receptacle ONLY. Period....
If this is the way the guy wired the grounding it is dangerous and could cause an electrical shock hazard or worse possible electrocution in the event of a hot to chassis ground fault event.
Also note you do not have a low resistance path for ground fault current to return to the source, the electrical service neutral conductor, in the event of a hot to chassis fault. This would also include anything plugged into the wall outlet. That includes the power cord feeding any equipment. Cut to the case, the breaker in the electrical panel that protects the branch circuit wiring will never trip open in the event of a ground fault event.

//

As for your power quality problem there is always a solution. It may require you hiring a certified credited power quality testing company. In my area they charge around $125 an hour. In your case the tech would be there about an hour or so..... He/she will have the test equipment needed to find your power quality problem. If it is coming in from outside your home the testing company will provide you with the necessary test reports to show to your utility power company. If it is inside your home the power quality company will identify the problem. If it is structure electrical wiring or fixed electrical equipment a licensed electrician will be required to make the repairs. In most cases the power quality company will recommend an electrical contractor company they use.
Jim


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tomiiv30
What is the difference between the ground wire that is connected to the panel itself and the one that goes to the outside, it still goes thru the panel but it is not attached to the panel itself it just goes thru the pipe that goes outside where the meter is and from there it is attached to the rod.
All grounds must be bonded together along with the neutral at the service panel. Your separate ground creates a chance that a fault to ground won't trip a breaker. That's the biggest problem with the arrangement and why its an NEC violation.
The guy that came to my house and did this has been in business for over 30 years and I trust them thinking they know what they do
It's likely that your town requires a permit for this work. Did you check into that?
@OP,
I would find another electrician.
From what you have described, I would be wary of what the original electrician did-especially with his nasty attitude, and concerned that this setup is according to code. 
Perhaps the whole problem with the Mac was a blessing in disguise. You might have uncovered a problem that could have become a Big Problem, if a lightning storm struck.
Bob
tomiiv30 OP33 posts01-21-2019 2:31pm

@cleeds

What is the difference between the ground wire that is connected to the panel itself and the one that goes to the outside, it still goes thru the panel but it is not attached to the panel itself it just goes thru the pipe that goes outside where the meter is and from there it is attached to the rod.
I am by no means an electrician and I am trying the understand as much as possible how everything should work.
The guy that came to my house and did this has been in business for over 30 years and I trust them thinking they know what they do.

What is the difference between the ground wire that is connected to the panel itself and the one that goes to the outside, it still goes thru the panel but it is not attached to the panel itself it just goes thru the pipe that goes outside where the meter is and from there it is attached to the rod.
@ tomiiv30 OP

Like cleeds said that is an NEC violation. It is also not the correct way to connect the IG (Isolated Ground) ground conductor to ground. It can pass through a sub panel to the main panel the sub panel is fed from but it must connect to the ground bar in the electrical panel. Period!

The problem with what you have now the earth is not considered a low resistive path for ground fault current to travel back to the source. In the event of a hot to chassis ground fault the chassis could/would be HOT with respect to any other piece of grounded equipment that is properly grounded within arms length. Heck, you would be better off just using a ground cheater at the outlet to plug the equipment into. At least then you know the outlet is not grounded.

I am by no means an electrician and I am trying the understand as much as possible how everything should work.

The guy that came to my house and did this has been in business for over 30 years and I trust them thinking they know what they do.
If the grounding is wired as you said, the guy is not an electrician either. He just passes himself off as an electrician....... Not all electricians are created equal.

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You guys are scaring me big time now, this is Chicago and we got some of the most f’ed up people here that say they are something to later find out that they are nothing. These are guys that have been recommended to me by friends and family. What the heck is this world coming to. And I paid them top dollar and never asked for any discounts or anything, whatever they asked I paid.
The last guy that I used the one that has more than 30 years experience, he showed me his license and works for the union and is a foreman.(It could be a big lie).
Maybe he is older and stubborn and don’t want to upgrade himself to the newer standards or he is in for the quick money.
Just like a mechanic if he tells me to replace the engine I would do it because I trust his word and this is how it should be.

The question now is how do I find an electrician that I can trust?