Dedicated Line Advise

Thanks for the detailed info, minor1. My box has the Main Disconnect linked on #2 and 4, so it's very convenient.
I'm sure I could move a breaker myself, although each wire may only be cut to length.

 It's a very poor layout of my household appliances. Even though the load is balanced, there are some high-current breakers in the middle, then blanks and low current, then more appliances at the bottom). 
If it's only an hour labor charge, I'm fine with that. Thanks.

Peter, I have a quick story about my respect for electricity. I'm not an EE or electrician, but I did hold a 2nd Class FCC license and worked as an audio engineer.
On my first remote, we were going to tie-in the truck to the venue (an old theater), so I went with the Chief Engineer to the basement and located the circuit boxes. He handed me a heavy length of wood and said that if he started to get electrocuted, I was to knock his body away from the wiring.

I bought a home for my kids to live in while going to college. Built in 1923, it had a new box installed, actually 2 boxes. One outside box that carried a mains breaker which fed a interior box for the home. Never seen this before. If wanting to work on the interior box with no fear, simply throw the breakers on the exterior. Wish I had used this system when I built my home in 2000.  Now, if I wanted to restructure the breaker positions in my home box I would have the utility company remove the supply meter for the day.

I love these stories.  This is why it is always important to use a volt meter and check to see that the voltage is zero on the phases.

In the utility industry, one always checks hot voltage first to see if the meter is working, then check the "de-energized" circuit to see if it is zero, then go back and check the hot voltage again. to make sure there is no fault with the meter.

Also, as always, it is better to hire a licensed Electrician if one does not know how to do this.  Safer is always better.

enjoy