Dedicated Line Advise


I currently have a 20 amp dedicated line run to my small HiFi rig; amp, preamp, CDP, TT, power conditioning. I wish to add a second line using the same electrician who has worked on my house. It looks like he used 12 gauge Romex last time.

What are the key facts that I should know in case he is not familiar with doing wiring for audio systems?
I'm talking about the installation at the breaker box, e.g., keeping proper phase and preventing a ground-loop between the 2 circuits.
128x128lowrider57
Minorl,
While I agree that it is quite easy to change a breaker to the other phase in a panel - but if one is not familiar at all with electrical work - I will strongly caution about the DIY approach on this one.  For one there is lethal voltages inside the panel and even though the main beaker is turned off, depending on the design of the panel there could still be live voltage inside the panel - in my main panel the feed coming from the meter to the main breaker are still live with the breaker in its off position.

Another one I will never forget, while an electrician apprentice back in Denmark, where I'm originally from, we were called to a vacation home to install an electrical outlet for a TV.  Initially the owner had tried to install it himself, even though back there its actually again the law.  Also every house is fed with three phases and neutral, 220V from neutral to each phase and 380V between the phases.   He managed to get 380V on the outlet, and there was an empty TV stand in front of the outlet :-)

Good Listening

Peter

Thanks for the detailed info, minor1. My box has the Main Disconnect linked on #2 and 4, so it's very convenient.
I'm sure I could move a breaker myself, although each wire may only be cut to length.

 It's a very poor layout of my household appliances. Even though the load is balanced, there are some high-current breakers in the middle, then blanks and low current, then more appliances at the bottom). 
If it's only an hour labor charge, I'm fine with that. Thanks.


Peter, I have a quick story about my respect for electricity. I'm not an EE or electrician, but I did hold a 2nd Class FCC license and worked as an audio engineer.
On my first remote, we were going to tie-in the truck to the venue (an old theater), so I went with the Chief Engineer to the basement and located the circuit boxes. He handed me a heavy length of wood and said that if he started to get electrocuted, I was to knock his body away from the wiring.
I bought a home for my kids to live in while going to college. Built in 1923, it had a new box installed, actually 2 boxes. One outside box that carried a mains breaker which fed a interior box for the home. Never seen this before. If wanting to work on the interior box with no fear, simply throw the breakers on the exterior. Wish I had used this system when I built my home in 2000.  Now, if I wanted to restructure the breaker positions in my home box I would have the utility company remove the supply meter for the day.

I love these stories.  This is why it is always important to use a volt meter and check to see that the voltage is zero on the phases.

In the utility industry, one always checks hot voltage first to see if the meter is working, then check the "de-energized" circuit to see if it is zero, then go back and check the hot voltage again. to make sure there is no fault with the meter.

Also, as always, it is better to hire a licensed Electrician if one does not know how to do this.  Safer is always better.

enjoy