Dedicated power lines-getting started

Huh? But it's rated to 300v!
I wonder if the relatively tender Teflon outer jacket is the issue here? I cover it with a clear vinyl jacket for protection and a decent "hand" in my PCKits. It'd be a shame if one had to run it through conduit or another sleeve just for code-approval, as it probably works better with its minimal all-Teflon dielectric.
When you physically look at it compared to 12/2 or 12/3 Romex it's quite a surprise to hear that it's "not recommended". Certainly the vendors I've spoken with don't question its use at 120v....
Ican think of no better-sounding affordable cable for dedicated lines. It'd be a shame if potential users are disuaded from using it because of fear of having to snip it off at both ends if "discovered" by a hawkish inspector.
Very costly to remove? At least not in Massachusetts. Code requires that all "old work" be removed ONLY when discovered upon having full access, like when a floor or ceiling are ripped up and you see a few old cut up lines sitting there (as happened to me in my 1910 house).
NO-ONE to my knowledge has ever been asked to remove, or even disconnect, an 83802/3 line used for 120v.
I don't pretend to be an expert on codes and wire insulation classification. When you cut up the 8380x and look at its construction it seems awfully sensible to use for our audio power purposes. Since it's all-Teflon dielectric I know that it couldn't possibly be reponsible for starting a fire, so I'll take my chances, being pretty confident that a personal insurance adjuster could easily protect me from an aggressive company inspector if there's ever a catastrophe. I don't mean to be argumentative. I just want this excellent,very cost-effective product to be available to us. You couldn't design or make a better power cord for 5 times the price on a small scale....

Receptacle spacing has been in the NEC forever, and is no bigie; in fact it's too conservative. No one would design a modern residence to Code minimum - and remember, the Code is *not a design guide, and most of it's requirements are *minimums.

Ditto Eagle. The wire mentioned is UL and NEC defined as Power Limited Fire Alarm Cable. The prob w/ 300V rated wire intended for power circuits is the abuse and abrasion that may occur on installation. Especially on retrofits. There isn't much margin for error. Hence building wire is all 600V insulation rated... It's thick, it's fat, and intended on getting beat up on installation.

Yeah, you could make up some PC's with this cable that would be OK, but you had better know what you're doing, and don't plan on dragging them around or walking on them...

There is, no subsitute or compromise when it comes to electrical safety.

Thanks, Shasta.
I enclose this type (83802/3) cable in appropriate vinyl outer jackets for abrasion-resistance and tight PC connections. Nonetheless, pulling it through old lathe isn't something to be cavalier about. I suggest that naked 83802/3 be used carefully, threaded where it's visually verifiably safe, and perhaps terminated in loose "floating" power boxes rather than risking pulling across an old nail behind a lathe near an existing old duplex. But Romex is certainly at risk for the same reasons, although its junk-jacket is indeed tougher than pure soft teflon. Catch 22 again....

subaru-
Romex is indeed subject to fork-ups on installation. There are many many cases of a heavy handed gorilla taking one too many whacks with a hammer on those romex staples, crushing the wire, creating either a dead line-to-neutral/ground short, or much worse, an arcing ground fault. Result of the latter: a fire.

Regardless of the conductor chose, note that in the electrical trade, residential wiring is called "dingbat" work, and is where apprentices start out at. No slur intended; they are just following the plans (Code minimum)as approved by the developer (Cost & time minimum), and that's why we all end up with $0.79 receptacles w/ #14 wiring.

There are NEC provisions that are stupid for the informed, but are there to protect the idiots. No, I won't list the ones I know. And that's why any intelligent engineer or designer, or provider of electrical material, won't ever give casual advice unless he is covered by liability insurance.

Your response was well stated, BTW. Personally, I wouldn't be retailing electrical products that aren't listed and labeled for the use I was advertising them as, unless I included a liability release with each purchase order, since you don't personally supervise the installation of said products.

No matter how "ideal" the 83802 and 83803 might seem for house wiring, the bottom line is that it is most likely NOT approved for a majority of people's house wiring.

I would urge anybody that uses ANY non-standard house wiring to check with their local electrical inspector (not an electrician) before completing their project.

What happens if your house burns down and your insurance company finds you used wire that was not up to code for your area?

I'm NOT picking on the 83802 or 83803 specifically, as even my super duper new power cord wire is better than half the stuff in people's walls, however it should NOT be used for house wiring either...

Eagle has done his homework and is consistently getting the same answer on this issue, so you might want to do some checking with the people who regulate this stuff, subrugru, and see if you get answers to the contrary.

Best regards,

Chris VenHaus
VH Audio
www.venhaus1.com